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Wednesday, April 6, 2011

So you say you've never seen the Grand Canyon...

It’s surprising, really, the number of Americans who haven’t visited the Grand Canyon.  There are those who have visited all manner of man-made fluffery in France and swear by the all-you-can-consume, all-inclusive resorts of Mexico, but have yet to get to the biggest, most beautiful pothole in their own country.

I know, I know – it’s sometimes easier to hop on a plane and fly across the Atlantic than it is to drive or fly clear across the country and then drive again to a remote location. But still. 

The views at the North Rim, while harder to get to, can't be beat.


The even sadder truth is that of the ones who do actually make it there, 90 percent never even leave their cars. They drive along the South Rim, the most accessible part of the park, stopping for a Kodak moment at the Grand Canyon Village, Hermits Rest, and Desert View overlooks. Even fewer make the long trek in to the North Rim, maybe easing out of their rigs just long enough to snap a shot from the lodge patio, take a potty break and then hop back in to trek to the next big thing.

The rewards, though, of spending some time at this glorious, one-mile-deep canyon can go far beyond getting that national park ticket punched and moving along.

First of all, it’s ideal for kids, particularly those over about age 7 or 8. Remember, though, that if they’ve been patient for the long drive there, they’re going to need some running around, letting-loose time when they arrive, so sticking them at a table at one of the nice lodge eateries is a terrible idea. Better to get them a snack and let them blow off some steam first.

Second, there are gorgeous, shady spots for camping (no hookups at the campgrounds inside the park, but there are places on the way, check here for details. Third, there are many options for getting exercise, including hiking and biking, and other outdoor adventures, such as whitewater rafting and riding a mule along the rims or down into the canyon.

Here are some highlights:

Bikers at the South Rim can take it easy along the three-mile greenway in the village – especially welcome for kids who don’t want to walk everywhere – or stretch your legs along Hermit Road, which gets you views of the Colorado River and big panoramas of the canyon itself. Private vehicles are limited here, so there’s less traffic. Didn’t bring a bike? Rent one at Bright Angel Bicycles, which can also arrange for a guide.

Don’t feel like doing any work? They’ll do it for you via shuttle, which will haul you along Hermit Road in a free bus (March-November). You can also take a tour bus ($25 per person, kids under 16 free).

Near the South Rim – about a five-hour drive – a half- or full-day whitewater river rafting trip or a smooth-water raft trip is a great way to beat the heat. Prices vary according to the length and type of trip. You can also plan ahead for a commercial trip down the Colorado River inside the canyon, for trips that can start at three days long.

If you’re taking the kids to the North Rim, a one-hour mule trip along the rim is ideal. They have to be age 7 or older, and the cost is $40. They also offer half-day trips, but those are better for adults; it’s usually stinking hot there, and attention spans don’t often last that long.

The Bright Angel Trail is an easy one for kids.


Also at the North Rim, there are several hikes worth checking out. The Bright Angel Trail is only a half-mile round-trip and very easy for kids; it gets you terrific views of the canyon and starts from just beyond the lodge. The trail is paved and only slightly sloped. Other easy, kid-friendly hikes with canyon views include the .6-mile, round-trip Cape Royal trail and the .2-mile, round-trip Roosevelt Trail. For older kids and adults, there are about another half-dozen other trails to check out, from three to ten miles long, as well as the 28-mile (round-trip) overnight trek down to the river on the North Kaibab Trail.

For mountain bikers, the singletrack along the Rainbow Rim is some of the best riding in the country. Not only are the views spectacular and unparalleled, but the trail itself is pretty sweet. The bad news: There’s a 30-mile dirt road drive to get to the trailhead, and you need to set up a shuttle or do both ways of the 18-mile point-to-point as an out-and-back. Ouch. Still, it’s so beautiful, it’s worth it, and it’s not a technical ride – mostly smooth, with the occasional tree root or ruts and rocks, but all avoidable.

For more information about visiting either the North or South Rim at Grand Canyon National Park, visit the official website.

The roadtripster is the handle of a longtime Coloradan who travels the country by any means possible, sometimes in an RV, sometimes car camping or in the backcountry, with kids and without.

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