Climbing Legend Walter Bonatti Has Passed Away

The mountaineering community lost one of its living legends last night when Italian climber Walter Bonatti passed away at the age of 81. He is best remembered for pioneering new routes in the Alps, Patagonia and the Himalaya.

Among Bonatti's more famous accomplishments were the solo winter ascent of the Matterhorn's North Face and first ascents on the Southwest Pillar of Aiguille du Dru and the Grand Capucin. Other notable climbs include Gasherbrum IV, Rondoy North, and multiple summits of the Grandes Jorasses.

Bonatti played a pivotal role in the first ascent of K2 as well, although it took decades for him to get the recognition he deserved. Working in support of Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni, Bonatti helped establish and stock the high camps on the mountain in preparation for the eventual summit bid. On that successful attemp, Lacedelli and Compagnoni ran out of oxygen and accused Bonatti of using it while he was at Camp IX, an accusation that Bonatti vehemently denied, as he didn't even have a regulator or oxygen mask with him at that point of the climb. That expedition took place in 1954 and it took until 2008 for Bonatti to be officially cleared of the accusations and get the credit he deserved.

An active, daring, and visionary climber, Bonatti wrote numerous books on mountaineering and inspired a generation of climbers that followed him. He quietly passed away in Rome leaving his widow Rossana Podesta behind.

Godspeed Walter.

The Patagonia Expedition Race To Air On Outside Television

Fans of adventure racing will have yet another chance to catch a race on TV, provided you're lucky enough to have Outside Television in your market. The network has announced that it will begin showing the video of the 2011 edition of the Wenger Patagonia Expedition Race on July 6th at 1 PM.

The video of the race has been garnering plenty of attention at adventure film festivals across the globe. It won the "Adventure Sport" category at the inaugural Killarney Adventure Film Festival, and is also a Finalist at the New Zealand Mountain Film Festival as well. Additionally, it was an Official Selection at the Breckenridge Festival of Film held a few weeks back too.

I've been fortunate enough to have seen the video, and I can attest to its quality. It is a fantastic film covering not only this particular race but also doing a good job of capturing the spirit of adventure racing in general. Considering the remote nature of Patagonia, and the unpredictable weather conditions there, it is remarkable that producer Brian Leitten was able to put together such comprehensive coverage of the event. You can watch the trailer for the video below to get a glimpse of what you can expect.

If you're luck enough to have Outside TV, set your DVR's for July 6th at 1 PM. You'll be glad you did!

Trailer For Wenger Patagonian Expedition Race Film Looks Amazing

Earlier this year we followed the Patagonian Expedition Race as it went down in Chile. It was, as usual, one of the more demanding adventure races of the year, with amazingly beautiful, but brutal terrain, harsh weather, and grueling conditions all around.

Now, a trailer for the video of the race has been released, and it gives us a glimpse of what the teams endured while out on the trail. It looks even more difficult than I imagined from the race reports that we heard post-event. It is also even more beautiful as well.

Thanks to the Gear Junkie for the heads up on this. Stephen can be seen at the 42 second mark of the trailer, looking like a complete zombie. He also shares some thoughts about the race here.

Patagonia Expedition Race: Brits Claim Third Straight Title

The Wenger Patagonia Expedition Race came to an end last night with the defending champs of Team adidasTERREX/Prunesco claiming their third straight title and securing their place amongst the elite adventure racing teams on the planet. They were followed across the finish line by Team GearJunkie.com and Vaucluse Adventure Evasions in second and third place respectively.

The Patagonia Expedition Race has proven to be quite a challenging start to the big international adventure racing calendar over the past few years, but the 2011 edition may just have been the hardest yet. The race began over a week ago in the Torres del Paine region of Chile with sunny skies and fantastic weather. That weather degenerated quickly however, and the notoriously nasty storms of Patagonia arrived on the scene to play havoc with the teams. When the race started, there were 14 four-person, coed teams in the running, at the end there were just six left. Worse yet, the heavy rains forced the cancellation of a trekking leg that became far too dangerous, and three teams had to be airlifted from the course due to dangerously high rivers.

The three remaining teams that are out on the course, Croatia's Ad Natura - Karibu, East Wind of Japan, and the international team of erdido en el Turbal are all expected to reach the finish line later today. At this point, it is a matter of pride that they finish what has become one of the most challenging races in recent memory, and I'm sure the post-race party to be held in Punta Arenas will be a wild one.

Congrats to adidasTERREX/Prunesco on another fine showing and to all the teams for competing so hard under such challenging conditions. It seems that the 2011 adventure racing season is off to a fine start already.

Patagonia Expedition Race: Weather Delays, Alters Race

As I mentioned last week, one of the toughest adventure races around is currently underway in Chile, where the Wenger Patagonia Expedition Race is near its conclusion. With the top teams currently on their bikes, and racing towards the finish line, it seems that this year's event lived up to its billing and has been challenging the athletes at every turn.

This year's course was more focused on the northern regions of Patagonia, with the start taking place in the shadow of the Torres del Paine mountains, not far from the Southern Continental Ice Field. As I've mentioned on more than one occasion however, it isn't just the terrain that teams must deal with in this race, as the legendary Patagonia weather can bring its own form of punishment. That has proven to be the case once again this year, as the weather got so bad at one point that the race had to be suspended, something that rarely happens in adventure racing. Heavy rains in the area also forced the cancellation of a trekking leg as well.

As of this writing, the defending champions of AdidasTERREX/Prunesco (UK) continue to lead the race, with Team GearJunkie.com in second place and racing hard. On the leaderboard it says the teams are just a half-hour apart, although it seems that GearJunkie failed to sign into one of the checkpoints and as a result they've been assessed a 10 hour penalty which will surely break their hearts in the end. Team Vaucluse Adventure Evasions of France is the third place team, and the only other one out of the PC13 at this point.

The final leg, which the teams are currently on, is a 188km (116.8 mile) mountain bike ride. That should keep them occupied for the better part of the day, but expect the first teams to cross the finish line later today. At this point, it's hard to imagine anyone catching the leaders, but this is adventure racing after all, and anything can happen.

BBC Discovers The Patagonia Expedition Race

It has been one of the top adventure races in the world over the past few years, but it has taken a bit longer for the mainstream press to catch on. The BBC has discovered the Patagonia Expedition Race, and has written a rather nice article about what it calls "

">the world's last 'wild race.'"

Scheduled to take place in Chile from February 8-16, the 2011 Patagonia Expedition Race is now just 13 days away. This year's event will be the ninth time that the race has been run, and for a change of venue, it will move the course further north this time out to have the teams compete across the Southern Continental Ice Field, which will present its own unique challenges and obstacles.

Of course, as usual, the racers will have to paddle, mountain bike, trek, and navigate their way through the beautiful and wild Patagonian backcountry, while also dealing with the notoriously unpredictable weather that is common there.

The BBC has a great video on the event, but unfortunately they won't let me embed it here. You'll just have to check it out by clicking here. Meanwhile, stay tuned for more coverage of the race once it gets underway in a couple of weeks. As usual, it looks like it will offer a wild and spectacular start to the international adventure racing season.

Colin Haley Makes First Solo Climb of Cerro Standhardt

Rock climber Colin Haley made another spectacular and daring solo climb in Patagonia back in late November, becoming the first person to top out on Cerro Standhardt alone. The climb is amongst the toughest in the world, but Haley has made quite a name for himself climbing in Patagonia the past few years, and has also become very familiar with big rock faces of the region.

Haley first came to prominence on the international climbing scene when he and Rolando Garibotti competed the Torre Traverse back in 2008. That project entailed the two climbers completing a climb up and over Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre, something that many had dreamed about for years, but had never been accomplished until that point.

Since then, Haley has returned to Patagonia three years running, drawn in by the spectacular scenery and the fantastic rock faces. On his latest venture, he made the solo ascent on November 27th of last year, beginning at 4 AM on the peaks well known Exocet route. From there, he scrambled up the relatively easy starting ramps before soloing the first two pitches on the four-pitch chimney wall. After that, he self belayed up the big wall, before reaching the top at 4 in the afternoon, 12 hours after he set out.

To read a full report of the climb, with details from Colin himself, check out this post on the Black Diamond website that was published late last week.

Big thanks to Frank Ledwell from JPFreek Magazine for sharing the story with me. Much appreciated my friend!

Want To Be A Race Photographer At The Patagonia Expedition Race?

Are you a fan of adventure racing? Fancy yourself a photographer? Ever wanted to visit Patagonia? Then I've got just the opportunity for you. The Wenger Patagonian  Expedition Race takes place February 8-16, 2011 in Chile's Patagonian region, and the organizers of the event are looking to add someone to their official photography team. In fact, they're running a contest to fill the job.

Entry for the contest is now open, and you'll find all the details by clicking here. Simply fill out the from with the standard info, such as name, address, e-mail, etc., and upload three photo samples, and you're in the running. If you're the grand prize winner, you'll get a trip to Chile, including airfare, accommodations, and ground transportation while in Patagonia, where you'll get unprecedented access to the race course so you can document the drama and excitement of this great race.

For the past few years, the Patagonian Expedition Race has been one of the first big events of year on the AR calendar, and 2011 looks to be no different. The race attracts top teams from around the globe, giving them a chance to compete in one of the most spectacular wilderness environments on the planet. Patagonia is a fantastic place to hold a race, and each year it seems to throw new and unexpected wrinkles at the racers. I'm sure 2011 will be no different, except if you're the luck photographer who gets to go, you'll get to see it all first hand.

Good luck!

Video of the Patagonian Expedition Adventure Race

Year in and year out, the Wenger Patagonian Expedition Adventure Race is one of the premiere events on the adventure racing calendar. The fact that it is set in one of the most spectacular landscapes on the planet doesn't hurt either. To get a glimpse of what this even it all about, check out the six and a half minute long trailer for the upcoming DVD of the 2010 race, but be warned, you may be inspired to start training yourself. The 2011 edition begins on February 9th!

Thanks to the Gear Junkie for the heads-up on this great video!

Climbing Big Walls in Patagonia, with Patagonia

I came across another great climbing video today, this time capturing Patagonia ambassadors Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva as they take on the he Central Tower of Torres del Paine in Chile's Patagonia region. The video is more than seven minutes long, but catpures the spirit of a big climb on a huge wall very well.

Am I the only one who shudders at the thought of spending the night in one of those little ledge tents on the side of a big rock face? I don't think I'd get much sleep up there!

Awesome video! Enjoy.

The Ice Caves of Patagonia

Patagonia remains one of the most enduring adventure destinations on the planet. Its very name sparks images of sharply peaked mountains, snow covered passes, and incredibly serene lakes.

Earlier today, I came across the video below while reading the Adventure Chronicles. It not only captures some amazing general footage from the region, it also takes us on a tour of some spectacular ice caves that form in the glaciers there.The accompanying music is wonderful as well, so I recommend sitting back, turing up the speakers and just enjoying the sites. Very cool video!

Patagonia Ice Caves Project 2010 from Alessandro Beltrame on Vimeo.

Patagonian Expedition Adventure Race Over, Brits Defend!

The Patagonian Expedition Adventure Race is billed as the "world's toughest and wildest" race, covering more than 600 kilometers through some of the most beautiful and challenging terrain on the planet. And for the past week, 16 coed teams of four have been trekking, biking, and paddling their way through Chile's Patagonia, battling the elements, the landscape, and each other.

After a week of racing, the first team that crossed the finish line was the defending champs Helly Hansen-Prunesco. This British team has now proven themselves two years in a row, claiming the championship in 2009, and becoming the first team to ever successfully defend their title in 2010. The racers, Nicola Macleod, Andrew Wilson, Mark Humpfrey, and Bruce Duncan, completed a final trek along the Beagle Channel in the early hours of the morning today to claim their victory.

Meanwhile, the rest of the teams are still out on the course. According to the race website, many of them reached Yendegaia Bay last night, but a mandatory dark zone was in effect to prevent the athletes from heading out onto the Channel itself. Considering the reputation of those waters, it would be no picnic in a kayak during the day, let alone at night. More of the teams are expected to reach the finish line later today.

Helly Hansen took charge of the race on the second day, moving out in front on a long, and tough, mountain biking leg in the Darwin Mountains. From there, they simply put the pedal down, and didn't let anyone else get back within striking distance, which is evidenced by the fact that they are now enjoying hot showers and warm food, while the rest of the field continues to play catch-up.

Congrats to the winners of this year's race. Great job on repeating in one of the toughest adventure races on the planet.

Adventure Racing News: GJ Off To Patagonia, Race Along The Gulf Coast, and More

The adventure racing community is starting to spring into action for 2010, with races getting set to begin, and teams looking ahead to what appears to be a fairly full, and busy schedule of events. This bodes well for a sport that had a number of high profile races take a hiatus last year, when the economy was in the tank, and sponsorship dollars were at a premium.

The Gear Junkie posted a note to his Daily Dose Blog with information that he would be AWOL for awhile. He's headed south, to Chile, to take part in one of the first epic races of the year, the Patagonia Expedition Race. This year's race will push teams to the limit once again, as they deal with the unpredictable weather conditions that are common in the region. The 600km route will run the length of Tierra del Fuego, before sending the athletes out to the Isla Navarino, which lies beyond the world's most southerly human settlements. As always, this should be an amazing race through amazing scenery. Check out the preview video below for more.

Meanwhile, Wade from Outdoorzy.com has announced that he'll be headed to Ecuador in a couple of weeks to cover the Huairashinchi adventure race for Adventure World Magazine. The race will run from Feb. 13-15, and is held at altitude in the highlands of Ecuador. It is also part of the Adventure Racing World Championships, giving teams a chance to compete for a spot in that major event later this year.

Speaking of Adventure World Magazine and the ARWC, the website has been running excellent preview articles on the World Series for several weeks now, taking an in depth look at all the events that make up the series, while also touching on the top teams that will be competing, and a whole lot more. You can find Part 1 of the series by clicking here. They've already posted four more installments, so that should keep you busy for awhile.

Finally, my friend Dave Poleto is preparing to kick off his Gulf Coast Adventure Racing season, with a whole host of races on the schedule for the year. They'll get things underway on April 3rd with a pair of adventure races, which will be held in Alexandria, Louisiana. From there, it only gets better, more races being held all the way into November. If you live along the Gulf Coast region, you'll want to check out the entire schedule, found here, to find an event close to you. They've even got a race designed for first timers and families, so if you've ever wanted to give adventure racing a try, now is your opportunity.

It's good to see so many big and small events back for 2010. Looks like it's going to be a great year for the sport.

Climbing In Patagonia Caught On Helmet Cam

While we're on the subject of cool videos, check out the one below that shows climber Colin Haley making an impressive climb in Patagonia. Colin was wearing a helmet cam on his ascent of Aguja Guillaument, one of the peaks he's using as a warm-up to some bigger walls once the weather improves. He's planning on being in Patagonia for three months, and has already taken on some of the peaks in the Fitzroy Group, with even more ambitious climbs on the schedule.

Thanks to the Goat for this one!

BD athlete Colin Haley wears a helmet camera during a solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Antarctica 2009: Heading South and Heading Up

Progress towards the Pole, and other Antarctic destinations, continues at the bottom of the world, where teams have been experiencing overall good conditions on their respective journeys. While reports continue to be remarkably upbeat, the rigors of day to day travel have begun to take their toll as well.

The Kaspersky Commonwealth Team is reporting that while conditions remain very good, the weather has gotten colder, prompting an extra layer of insulation to hold out the wind. The latest dispatch from the team comes from yesterday, when they covered 12.4 nautical miles and then celebrated the "Festival of Sacrifice", an Islamic tradition brought to the team by Era, the team member from Brunei. Era has been working through her own sacrifices it seems, as she reports blisters upon her blisters following some long days on the ice.

Eric Larsen and his teammates continue steaming towards the Pole as well, In his latest update, Eric says that they have put the mountains behind them and are now on the Antarctic plateau, with the ground nearly flat and level. He also says that they have encountered almost no sastrugi so far, and progress continues at a great pace. In fact, on the day of the post, the boys knocked off 14.7 nautical miles, although things have slowed down a bit as they have been slogging up hill for some time. Most people don't realize that Antarctica is the highest continent in the world, and there are a few portions of the South Pole trek that require explorers to over come some rather long, slow, climbs.

Meagan McGrath posted a new audio update today announcing that she is on the ice at Hercules Inlet at last. She is spending today getting her equipment finalized and ready to go, and then tomorrow she'll be officially underway on her solo, unsupported journey to the Pole. She reports conditions are good, with temps "only" sitting at -10º below zero. From the sound of her voice, it seems Meagan is eager and ready to get things underway.

Ryan Waters and Cecilie Skog are continuing on their unsupported expedition to the Pole as well, with their latest update coming last Friday, when they were reportedly preparing to drop their skis and switch into crampons for the climb up Wujek Ridge. In an earlier post, the gave some details on their day to day proceedings which are broken down like this: "Each day we do 12 runs of 35 minutes, which add up to 7 hrs. skiing. We take alternating 5 or 10 min. breaks between runs when we eat lunch on the go... chocolate, nuts, cookies etc" At the end of the day, they hit the tents, repair gear, melt snow for drinking water, and try to relax some. Just another day in the life of a polar explorer I suppose.

Finally, back across the water to Patagonia, Borge Ousland and his crew are reportedly done with their expedition to traverse the Patagonian Icecaps. The team was plucked from the ice by a boat yesterday, and they're now on their way back to Santiago before departing for home. Borge and the crew had such a good time though, the intend to make the journey again next year, and are inviting us to join them. Anyone want so sign up for a Patagonian adventure with a polar legend? Sounds like fun!

Antarctica 2009: Progress!

With weather improving and momentum in their favor, the adventurous men and women already in the Antarctic have started to make real progress in their expeditions, while others leave home for Punta Arenas, as they make the final preparation for their polar adventures as well.

Updates from Eric Larsen and the Save The Poles Expedition indicates that they are off to a good start, covering more than 8 nautical miles in five hours time yesterday, their first real day out on the ice. An update to his blog also offers up some interesting information on how he approaches a journey such as this one, in which there are so many ways that you can fail, including gear issues, slow moving, injury, and more. But to make things easier and to stay focused, Eric takes a systematic approach to organization and staying focused on the goal. Interesting stuff to say the least, and probably applicable to any long distance trek in just about any environment.

Ryan Waters and Cecilie Skogs are also making good time in their unsupported trek to the South Pole. From what I can tell, they were the first team out from Patriot HIlls, and have been very focused thus far. Their latest dispatch, from two days ago now, says that they covered 18.2km (11.3 miles) on that day alone, with the weather conditions working together to provide the perfect skiing conditions. They ended the day with a hot chocolate in the tent, which, for my money, is a perfect way to end any cold day!

The Kaspersky Commonwealth Team have set off on their training run after repairing their tents that were damaged in high winds last weekend in Patriot HIlls. In their latest dispatch, they note that the high winds remain, but they have become a part of everyday life in Antarctica, and moral remains high amongst the group. They'll continue their training run for another day or two, testing out their equipment and getting a feel for life on the ice, before they finally turn their skis south, and their eventual destination at the Pole.

Meagan McGrath has left Canada at long last and is now on her way to Chile, where she'll get her gear organized before ALE takes her to Patriot Hills as well. Meagan posted new audio dispatches to her page before setting out from Ottawa, and she says she should arrive in Punta Arenas tonight. From there, she'll spend the next few days buying last minute gear and food, organizing her coms plan, and posting a few more updates to the website. With any luck, she'll be off to Antarctica by early next week.

Finally, catching up with Børge Ousland and his crew in Patagonia, where they continue their expedition across the icecap there. In his most recent update, Børge notes that the team was hit with more than 50 cm (19 inches!) of snow over night, which they thought would lead to slow going. Despite that however, they managed to knock off 16.5km (10.25 miles), although conditions deteriorated later in the day, and they made camp in white out conditions after 9 hours on the trail. So far, the team is content with their progress, but are worried about their fuel supply, amongst other things, if the current weather pattern persists.

Antarctica 2009: High Winds in Patriot Hills

Last week the first Antarctic teams descended on Patriot Hills as they began their acclimatization process for their journeys to the South Pole, Vinson Massif, or where ever they might be headed on the frozen continent. For most, the first day or two is used as a way to get use to the environment, check their gear one last time, and rest up before heading out. But weather conditions ended up keeping them in camp for a few extra days.

Polar explorer Eric Larsen posted an audio dispatch to his blog, giving us an update on his situation. He notes that high winds prevented him and the team he is guiding form setting out yesterday as planned, but he hoped to hit the trail today, and begin the long march south. He mentioned that much of the weekend had been spent keeping tents in place and making sure that they were holding up to the already extreme conditions, but now that things are expected to improve, he seemed eager to get his Save The Poles expedition underway. You may recall that Eric is hoping to become the first person to visit the "Three Poles" in one calendar year, going to the North and South Poles and the summit of Everest in the process. By doing so, he is looking to promote clean energy use in an effort to protect our rapidly changing environment

The Kaspersky Connonwealth Team has been stuck in Patriot HIlls thanks to the weather as well, and their latest dispatch indicates that they have been using their time to get on their skis and make a few trial runs, but once they winds picked up, they stayed snug in their tents, hoping that none of their gear got blown away. No word on when they intend to depart from Patriot Hills, but the seven woman team will be making the 500+ mile journey to the South Pole as a team.

Once the winds drop down, expect more people to start showing up on the ice. ALE will be flying in explorers and climbers from Punta Arenas later in the week, and Meagan McGrath has indicated that she'll be leaving for South America this week to begin her South Pole adventure as well.

Meanwhile, across the Beagle Channel, in Patagonia, Børge Ousland and his team are continuing their efforts to cross the Patagonian Icecap. They set out from Punta Arenas last week, and initially had slow going thanks to the wild and remote conditions that they had to trek through. Things seem to have improved greatly, and Børge reports spectacular weather conditions and stunningly beautiful scenery out on the ice. Progress has picked up some, but hidden crevasses have forced the team to move slowly and cautiously for now. Today they covered just 4km, which doesn't sound like much, but last week, while establishing their first camp, they managed just 1km in 9 hours of work. Improvements are all a matter of perspective in the wild!

Antarctica 2009: Setting the Stage

We're probably just days away now from the first teams setting out for Patriot Hills and beginning the long, cold, march to the South Pole and beyond. More explorers are showing up in Punta Arenas, and are in the final stages of their preparation to hit the ice, while ALE (Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions) is poised to deliver them to their starting points, where ever that may be.

Speaking ALE, ExWeb is reporting that they, along with the South Pole Station management team, are warning all visitors that the 7km radio antenna is still active this year and that they should plan to navigate well around the device. The very powerful radio signal can interfere with compasses and cause all kinds of issues with communications devices, so it is best to avoid the area as much as possible. There are some thoughts on how to adjust this in the future to make it less of an issue, but those changes aren't likely to take effect until next year.

The Kaspersky Commonwealth Team appears to have settled in nicely in Punta Arenas, where they are packing, sewing, and preparing for their journey. They've also posted a video on their blog giving us a tour of their living quarters, which while spartan, will seem down right luxurious to them soon.

Eric Larsen is also in Chile, and according to his latest blog post, he's been doing his last minute shopping, mainly for food. He talks about planning for this expedition and trying to decide how much food to carry vs. how much it'll all weigh on the sled. He'll have the opportunity to get resupply along the way, but it's a delicate balancing act, trying to decide how long it'll take to get to the food caches, with weather and ice conditions having an impact on how fast the team can travel.

Meagan McGrath has posted another audio update to her blog as well, with an update on her progress. She's still in Ottawa at this point, and has been finishing up some last minute details before she sets out for Punta Arenas on the 18th of the month. She's also been doing some training in preparation, and even went to the Adirondacks climbing last weekend, and working on getting her gear prepared. She is embarking on a year long adventure, in which the the South Pole journey is just the beginning, so expect to hear a lot more from Meagan in the days and weeks to come.

Finally, polar explorer Børge Ousland is off on another adventure, this time in the wilds of Patagonia, where he'll be traversing the Patagonian Icecap on foot. He arrived in Punta Arenas on the 2nd of November, and has now set off on his journey, along with two companions, and while he's not technically in Antarctica, I'll be posting updates on his progress in these reports as well. Ousland has already begun posting updates from the field, and it sounds like the legendary beauty of Patagonia is already on display before they even arrive on the ice.