Alan Arnette's Kilimanjaro Climb Begins

Last week I posted a video of Alan Arnette sharing his gear for Kilimanjaro with the rest of us. At the time, Alan was busy preparing to leave for Africa, where he would be climbing that mountain, which is the sixth of his Seven Summits for Alzheimer's expedition. After spending a few days in Europe, Alan arrived in Tanzania a few days ago and began his Kili climb in ernest today. He also started blogging about his adventure, giving us all the opportunity to follow along as he heads to the Roof of Africa over the next few days.

Today's entry is a brief one, but brings back quite a few memories for me. When climbing Kilimanjaro you actually pass through five different climate zones on the way to the summit, and today Alan hiked through the Could Forest. In his update, he notes that it felt more like Costa Rica or Hawaii than Africa, and when I did this leg a few years back, I thought the same. It was warm and humid and it didn't take long for me shirt to get soaked in sweat. That shirt wouldn't dry until I returned to Arusha at the end of the climb.

Alan his trekking the Machame Route, which is considered one of the more challenging, but scenic. I took the same route when I was there, and as he describes the trail, I can remember it well. It was a steep ascent, gaining more than 3800 feet of altitude on the first day, but by the time you're finished, you've arrived at camp, which sits on the edge of the next climate zone, an alpine marshland. Alan will hike through that tomorrow.

For anyone considering a Kilimanjaro trek, you'll definitely want to follow along with Alan's blog over the next few days. I'm sure he'll be posting regular updates on his progress, and he'll likely be sharing lots of information from the trail. It could also be insightful for those considering the adventure, as it is more challenging than what some would lead you to believe. That said, it is also amazingly beautiful and one of the top treks in the world.

Alan was more fortunate than I was on my first day on Kili. I didn't see any wildlife of note that day, but he reports that his team was shadowed by Blue Monkeys at one point. I had to wait until I was on safari to see the wildlife, and if you're going to Tanzania to do Kili, you owe it to yourself to stay a few days longer to visit the Serengeti as well. It is one of my favorite places in the world, easily living up to, and exceeding, all expectations.

Climbing Legend Walter Bonatti Has Passed Away

The mountaineering community lost one of its living legends last night when Italian climber Walter Bonatti passed away at the age of 81. He is best remembered for pioneering new routes in the Alps, Patagonia and the Himalaya.

Among Bonatti's more famous accomplishments were the solo winter ascent of the Matterhorn's North Face and first ascents on the Southwest Pillar of Aiguille du Dru and the Grand Capucin. Other notable climbs include Gasherbrum IV, Rondoy North, and multiple summits of the Grandes Jorasses.

Bonatti played a pivotal role in the first ascent of K2 as well, although it took decades for him to get the recognition he deserved. Working in support of Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni, Bonatti helped establish and stock the high camps on the mountain in preparation for the eventual summit bid. On that successful attemp, Lacedelli and Compagnoni ran out of oxygen and accused Bonatti of using it while he was at Camp IX, an accusation that Bonatti vehemently denied, as he didn't even have a regulator or oxygen mask with him at that point of the climb. That expedition took place in 1954 and it took until 2008 for Bonatti to be officially cleared of the accusations and get the credit he deserved.

An active, daring, and visionary climber, Bonatti wrote numerous books on mountaineering and inspired a generation of climbers that followed him. He quietly passed away in Rome leaving his widow Rossana Podesta behind.

Godspeed Walter.

The Reel Rock Film Tour 2011

The Reel Rock Film Tour officially gets underway on Thursday in, where else, Boulder, Colorado. From there, the show will spread out across the U.S. and Canada, bringing some of the best outdoor/adventure films from the past year along with it. You can check the tour calendar to see when it is coming to your area and watch the teaser trailer below. The video gives you a nice glimpse of some of the films that will be shown, but you'll find a complete list by clicking here.

Himalaya Fall 2011: A New Season Begins

With the summer season in the Karakoram now behind us, climbers are heading back to the High Himalaya in Nepal and Tibet for the fall season. While this is a much quieter time of year, when compared to the hustle and bustle of spring, there are still plenty of teams looking to bag summits in the weeks ahead.

Some of the climbers have already come and gone through Kathmandu and are now acclimatizing on their mountain of choice. For example, the Himex team is on Manaslu (8156 meters/26,759 ft) this fall, and have already gone as high as Camp 1, located at 5547 meters  (18,200 ft), where they spent three nights last week. While most expeditions to the Himalaya are special in their own right, this one is even more so. The team has nine soldiers from the U.K. who have suffered wounds while serving in Iraq and Afghanistan, each of which are hoping to summit the mountain. Those soldiers are working with the charity Walking With The Wounded to raise funds and awareness of their cause.

Also on Manaslu are the Altitude Junkies, who welcomed all of their team members to camp yesterday. They held their Puja ceremony this morning, and will now begin shuttling gear up to Camp 1 as well, The Sherpas are expected to start that process tomorrow, with the climbers to follow on Wednesday. Team leader Phil Crampton reports that the weather has been terrible in Base Camp the past three days, with plenty of rain making it difficult to establish camp. Fortunately, their gear seems to be working well so far, keeping everyone warm and dry.

IMG has teams on both Cho Oyu (8201 m/26,906 ft) and Shisha Pangma (8013 m/26,289 ft) this fall, and those squads both reached their respective Camp 1 last week. Both teams have spent time acclimatizing at altitude and are now resting in ABC and are expected to climb up to C2 in the next few days. Meanwhile, Sherpa teams have finished establishing those Camp 2's and are now fixing ropes above those points.

Other climbers and squads are now en route to other mountains as well, including Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, and more. As of now, I haven't heard of anyone attempting Everest this fall. If you know of a team that is doing so, please forward their information on to me. Thanks!

Video: Speed Climbing In The Alps With Ueli Steck

Swiss climber Ueli Steck never ceases to amaze. He is a fantastic athlete who focuses on climbing big, challenging peaks, often solo and as fast as possible. The video below is of Ueli making a solo, speed attempt on la Ginat, a 13,123-foot peak on the Mount Blanc massif not far from Chamonix, France.

For the record, Ueli sprinted up the mountain in just 2 hours and 8 minutes, and while the video is a year old, if you haven't seen it yet, it's definitely worth a watch.

Thanks to the Adventure Journal for sharing!

Ueli Steck Speed Soloing the Ginat on the Droites from Jonathan Griffith on Vimeo.

National Park Service Raises Price Of Denali Climbing Permits

Earlier this week, the National Park Service announced that it was raising the price of climbing permits for Denali, the tallest peak in North America. The fee increase, we're told, is to help offset the rising costs of rescuing climbers on the mountain.

Beginning in the 2012 season, the cost of a standard permit to climb the 6196 meter (20,327 ft) mountain will increase from $200 to $350. Permits issued for climbers 24 years old and younger will cost $250. Fees were originally instituted on the mountain back in 1995 to help cover the costs of maintaining a Search and Rescue.

Denali is a challenging, difficult mountain to climb, and since it is one of the Seven Summits, it is also a popular one. As a result, it sees its fair share of traffic each year, and along with that traffic comes some concerns with accidents and injuries. To help protect the climbers, the Park Service maintains three camps at various altitudes, plus a high altitude helicopter used for rescues. The NPS also funds an educational program designed to help prevent situations that would require climbers to need a SAR team.

Personally, I think a $350 permit is still a bargain on this type of climb and I don't see this impacting the number of people on the mountain too an great extent. If it helps fund operations that make the mountain safer, than I think it is definitely a justifiable rate increase and one that most mountaineers would applaud as well.

First Ascents In The Indian Karakoram

Yesterday I posted a story about the first ascent of Saser Kangri II that was completed by Steve Swenson, Mark Richey, and Freddie Wilkinson a few weeks back. It turns out, the boys weren't the only ones have some fun in the Karakoram this summer, as Kirsten Kremer, Emillie Drinkwater, and Freddie's wife, Janet Bergman, were also on hand to get in on the action.

Bergman posted a trip report on the Hardwear Sessions Blog a few days back detailing their climbs. She, and the other two ladies, traveled with the Saser Kangri II team to Base Camp before both squads went their separate ways to take on several unclimbed peaks. The girls focused their attention on a mountain that they simply called "6135," which happens to be its height in meters. That's 20,127 feet for those keeping track at home.

The team made two attempts to climb the unnamed mountain, but to no avail. Janet reports that the climbing was good, albeit challenging, but while they were on the face and the sun was out, they were continually bombarded by falling rock and ice. After a few days of those conditions, they decided that it was not safe to continue up the mountain, so they elected to return to Base Camp and look for other challenges.

They found those challenges on Pumo Kangri (6440 meters/21,128 ft), which Kirsten and Emillie climbed, and Saser Linga IV(~6200 meters/20,341 ft). In early August, the ladies were joined by Mark and Freddie for a climb up Stegosaurus, a 6640 meter (21,785 ft) mountain that features spiked ridges not unlike the back of the dinosaur from which it derives its name.

You can read more and check out some photos on their blog post, found here. Sounds like a pretty great way to spend most of your July and August. Congrats to the team.

Climbers Make First Ascent Of Saser Kangri II

Three American climbers have successfully topped out on Saser Kangri II, the second highest unclimbed peak in the world. According to the Hardwear Sessions Blog, the trio began their ascent on August 21st and reached the summit on the 24th, returning to Advanced Base Camp the following day.

The team consisted of American Alpine Club President Steve Swenson,  Mark Richey, who is a past president of that organization, and Mountain Hardwear athlete Freddie Wilkinson. The three men traveled to a very remote region of northern India to make the climb up the 7518 meter (24,665 ft) peak which features a 1700 meter (5577 ft) face that is extremely technical in nature.

The team did receive a major scare however, as Swenson suffered a severe sinus infection during the ascent. That infection turned into a major respiratory ailment that required that he be airlifted from the mountain on August 26th. Steve ended up spending a few days in the hospital while Mark and Freddie packed their gear and trekked out the traditional way, rejoining him in the town of Leh on the 30th. 

Saser Kangri II was one of the last major unclimbed peaks in the world and is a significant accomplishment for Swenson, Richey, and Wilkinson. The highest peak, Gangkhar Puensum, is located in Bhutan and stands 7570 meters (24,836 ft) in height. That mountain is likely to remain unclimbed, at least for the foreseeable future, as it is deemed a holy place, and climbing is strictly forbidden by the Bhutanese government. The new "second highest unclimbed" mountain is Labuche Kang III, located in Tibet, not far from Cho Oyu. That peak is 7250 meters (23,786 ft) in height. 

Congrats to Steve, Mark, and Freddie on a job well done. If you'd like to read more about their expedition, Steve is posting excellent post-climb reports on his blog, which can be found here. Also, check out the video below of Wilkinson sharing thoughts on the climb.

1959 Memo Outlines Regulations For Yeti Hunting In Nepal

A 1959 U.S. Foreign Service Dispatch, made available through the national archives, outlines the regulations to be undertaken should anyone make an expedition to Nepal to go in search of the Yeti – the mythical ape like creature that legend says makes its home in the Himalaya. The document is dated June 22 and is signed by Ernest Fisk, who served as Counselor of the Embassy. This memo is also an addendum to the regulations governing mountaineering and scientific expeditions to the region.

Surprisingly enough, there are just three regulations to be observed in regards to those going in search of the Yeti. The first stipulation is that you have to purchase a permit from the government of Nepal for 5000 Indian Rupees before setting out on your expedition. That's roughly $108 by today's exchange rate, a relative bargain in terms of big game hunting.

Secondly, if you do manage to come across a Yeti, it can only be photographed or captured alive. It is forbidden to kill the legendary creature unless it is in self defense. Live specimens or photos of the beast are to be turned over to the Government of Nepal as soon as possible.

Finally, it is forbidden to share any news or reports substantiating the existence of the Yeti with the press without first receiving permission from the Government of Nepal. Any such reports should first be turned over to the government before submitting them to the press or a reporter.

Reading through this memo I got a chuckle out of the fact that it is a real document handed out by the U.S. government to anyone heading into the Himalaya looking for the Abominable Snowman. It makes you wonder what other memos are out there floating around, such as Regulations for First Contact with Alien Lifeforms or How to Approach a Sasquatch. Either way, I found it to be a fun and interesting slice of history.

Karakoram 2011: Ralf And Gerlinde Talk K2 On Video

The 2011 Karakoram season is now a fading memory, but even though the rest of us have just begun to move on, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits have only now just returned home to Germany following a long trek out from K2 Base Camp and flights home from China.

As you probably recall, Gerlinde and three teammates became the first team to summit K2 in three years and in the process she became the first woman to summit all fourteen 8000 meter peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen. It was a very long, hard, climb for everyone involved, but in the end, their patience was rewarded with the opportunity to stand on top.

Immediately after their return home, Gerlinde and Ralf appeared on a German talk show to discuss their epic climb. The result was a 15+ minute long segment during which they talk about the challenges of climbing K2, what it was like on that mountain, and much much more.  You'll find the video below, and while it is in German, it has been close captioned in English. Simply hit the "CC" button to get an English translation.

Gear List For Kilimanjaro

As many of you know, mountaineer Alan Arnette is in the midst of his Seven Summit Climbs for Alzheimer's during which he hopes to reach the top of the highest mountains on each of the seven continents in an effort to raise money and awareness of the Cure Alzheimer's Fund.  He has already completed four of the climbs (Vinson, Aconcagua, Everest, and Elbrus) and was denied a summit attempt on Denali due to persistent bad weather, and in a few days time he'll leave for Africa, where he'll attempt Kilimanjaro.

Over the weekend, Alan posted an update to his blog sharing the gear that he'll be taking with him on this climb. As he notes, Kili is a different kind of climb, as it is actually a "hike-up" mountain that includes a lot of altitude, but not much technical challenge. The result is that it isn't as gear intensive as some of the other big peaks, although Summit Day does require warmer gear than most of the rest of the trek. Alan also included a video showing off his specific gear and sharing the items that he's taking with him. You'll find that video below.

I know that Kilimanjaro is is a popular destination for many adventure travelers, and I regularly get e-mails regarding the trek. I thought that Alan's blog post and video would come in handy for anyone planning their own trip to Kili as it will help you to know what exactly you should be taking with you when you head to Tanzania. There is no need for a bulky down suit on this expedition, although you do pass through five climate zones from the base of the mountain to the summit, so you still need to bring plenty of gear along.

After Kili, Alan will next head to Indonesia to climb Carstensz Pyramid and then on to Australia for Mt. Kosciuszko, the tallest point on that continent.

Climber With No Arms Sets Sights On Everest

According to this story from the Cochrane Eagle, a climber who is missing both of his arms will attempt to climb Everest next year. Sudarshan Gautam will take on the world's tallest mountain in an effort to raise funds for the Sam Sullivan Disability Foundation in Vancouver.


The 29-year-old Nepalese man, who now lives in Canada, lost both of  his arms when he was just 13. He was flying a kite at the time, and when the kite became tangled in electrical wires, he attempted to free it by using a metal pole. The resulting electric shock severely damaged his limbs, which had to be amputated.

Since that time, he has learned to live his life without the use of arms or hands. He uses his feet for many of his daily tasks, such as writing, eating, or even steering a car. In 2005 he also climbed Yala Peak, a 5732 meter (18,805 ft.) mountain located along the border of Tibet and Nepal, using "his teeth, feet and a team of sherpas." Sudarshan calls that "training for Mount Everest."

The story doesn't go into much detail on what his climbing experience beyond Yala Peak is however. That mountain is a non-technical "walk-up" that is more than 10,000 feet shorter than Everest. I'm not sure hiking to the top of Yala, six years ago no less, constitutes good training for a far taller and more technical mountain like Everest.

Still, I wish Sudarshan luck. I'd admire his spirit and sense of adventure, plus his efforts are going to a good cause. He has other plans for further adventures as well. Upon his return from the Himalaya next year, he plans to drive across Canada using nothing but his feet, in a manual transmission now less.

Conquering A New Solo Route On The Matterhorn

Yesterday I posted a story about three climbers putting up a new route on Mount Blanc at the beginning of the month. In that story, I mentioned that one of the climbers, Hervé Barmasse, had also completed a solo climb along a new route on the Matterhorn back in April. Today, I found a beautiful video of that climb that I think you'll enjoy.

With its sharp, distinctive peak, the Matterhorn is one of the most recognizable mountains in the entire world. Rising 4478 meters (14,692 ft), the mountain sits along the border of Italy and Switzerland. It was amongst the final big European mountains to be climbed, with the first summit coming in 1865, and has remained a proving ground for many alpine climbers in the decades that followed.

Barmasse climbed it as part of his Exploring The Alps expedition, during which he's attempting to open new routes on three peaks in the Alps. With the Matterhorn and Mount Blanc already under his belt, he'll next turn his attention to Mount Rosa, the highest peak in Switzerland.

Enjoy the video.



Hervé Barmasse, New route solo on the Matterhorn/ Hervé Barmasse, nuova via solitaria sul Cervino from Hervé Barmasse on Vimeo.

New Route Opened On Mount Blanc

Three North Face sponsored climbers opened a new route on one of Europe's most iconic mountains earlier this month. The team, which, consists of Italian Hervé Barmasse and Spaniards Iker and Eneko Pou, free climbed the southern Italian face of Mount Blanc, naming their new route La Classica Moderna as an homage to Walter Bonatti, who pioneered many routes in the Alps in the 50's and 60's.

Carrying only essential gear, the three men attempted a true alpine style ascent. Their approach to the mountain was hampered by knee-deep snow, but once on the face they were able to make steady progress, despite cold weather. The team worked the new route for three days, finally completing it on August 1st, after a 3300 meter (10,826 ft) vertical gain. Upon reaching the summit, the men descended on the French side of the mountain, eventually arriving in the classic mountain-town of Chamonix.

At 4808 meters (15,774 ft) in height, Mount Blanc is the tallest peak in Western Europe. The peak has been a popular climbing destination for more than 200 year, and has long been a proving grounds for alpine climbers. In fact, the mountain was first summited in 1786, which many climbing historians point to as the genesis of modern mountaineering, and it remains a formidable challenge to this day.

This newest route on Mount Blanc was completed as part of the Exploring The Alps expedition, which looks to be a trilogy of great climbs in the region. Back in April, Barmasse opened a new solo route on the Matterhorn (4478 meters/14,691 ft), and next the team will set its sights on Mount Rosa, the highest peak in Switzerland at 4634 meters (15,203 feet).

Karakoram 2011: International Team Safely Off K2

The squad of international climbers who successfully climbed K2 earlier this week are now safely down the mountain and making their way to Base Camp. According to a dispatch posted on Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's website, Ralf Dujmovits and Tommy Henrich climbed up to their "Deposit Camp" today to meet Gerlinde, and her compatriots Maxut Zumayev, Vassiliy Pivtsov, and Darek Zaluski. The six teammates then continued down the mountain to BC, and eventually the Chinese Base Camp, where a team of porters were waiting to load the remaining gear on camels for the trek out. That trek will begin tomorrow, and the entire team will soon be back in civilization once again.

According to Max, the four summiteers didn't truly celebrate their achievement until they were officially back down the mountain. As most mountaineers will tell you, the summit is only half-way to the finish line, and K2 is a particularly treacherous peak on the descent as well as the climb. Fortunately, the team reached Base Camp without any real problems, and they are now resting up and preparing for the journey home.

Max also noted that he and Vassiliy received a call from the Prime Minister of Kazakhstan, Karim Masimov, to personally congratulate them, but they were still on the mountain at the time. Ralf took the call and passed on the sentiments to the two Kazakh climbers.

Now that everyone is down and safe, I want to send one more round of congratulations to the team. They worked hard and were very patient, and in the end their persistence paid off, and they were able to climb the toughest mountain in the world. It is an amazing accomplishment and they've earned every bit of rest and relaxation that they've got coming to them. Well done!

Karakoram 2011: K2 Team Descending To Camp 1

With their successful summit of K2 now behind them, the team of Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Maxut Zumayev, Vassiliy Pivtsov and Darek Zaluski have been working hard to get back down the mountain safely. Today, they hope to descend as far as Camp 1, then finish their descent tomorrow, and start the long trek back home.

After a very long day of climbing yesterday, Gerlinde and Darek were able to make their way back to Camp 4, where they spent the night. Max and Vassiliy stayed in an intermediate camp above C4, but all four climbers headed down early this morning. According to their latest dispatches, they regrouped in Camp 3, where Gerlinde was waiting with  hot soup on the stove. After a brief rest there, they continued the descent, with the ultimate goal of reaching C1.

Tomorrow, they'll clean up all of their gear in Camp 1, then make their way down to their Base Camp, where Ralf Dujmovits and Tommy Henrich are already waiting and have most of their gear packed. From there, they'll spend another 3.5 hours descending to the Chinese Base Camp, where a team of porters are waiting with camels to help pack the gear back out to civilization. If all goes according to plan, they should be off the mountain and on their way home by Friday at the latest.

The descent is still a treacherous one, but they have passed the most demanding sections now and should arrive in Camp 1 today without too many problems. The worst of the climb is behind them, and it won't be long until they can get some real rest.

Karakoram 2011: Summits On K2!!

The long weeks of hard work and patience have finally paid off on K2, where the news is coming in this morning that the international team has summited the mountain. Details are still a bit light, but late in the day Pakistan time, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Maxut Zumayev, and Vassiliy Pivtsov have topped out on the world's second highest peak. Derek Zaluski is said to be close behind, but as of this writing, not at the summit yet.

Gerlinde's website has been down for maintenance all day (How's that for timing?), but has just come back online to announce that she has reached the summit, with Max and Vassiliy close behind. The note alos says that Darek is trailing a bit, but should arrive shortly. That post came at 6:18 PM local time.

Their day began at 1:30AM this morning, when they started the final summit push. The team had spent a very cold night at 8300 meters (27,230 ft) and were anxious to get the final portion of their climb underway. Unfortunately, they found plenty of snow waiting for them, and they had to continue to break trail through waist deep powder for much of their way up. It is also an extremely cold day on the mountain, and all four are said to be suffering from the bitter temperature. That said, the winds are nearly non-existant and there isn't a cloud in the sky, so the weather window has held, even if the temperatures have dropped.

This is all welcome news, as these summits are the first since the tragic events of 2008 during which 11 people died on K2. Since that time, the mountain has turned back all challengers, including some of the most experienced and talented climbers on the planet.

It should also be noted that by completing this climb, Gerlinde has become the first woman to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen. That is a huge accomplishment as well, and she deserves all the accolades for pulling that off.

Of course, the climb isn't over just yet. They need to get back down safely as well, and considering how long they've been climbing already today, they are surely exhausted. They'll likely descend back to Camp 4, rest awhile, then continue down the mountain. Keep your fingers crossed for them until they are safely back in Base Camp. They're not safely off the "Savage Mountain" just yet.

Congrats to Gerlinde, Max, Vassiliy, and Darek on a job well done. Now get down safe!

Karakoram 2011: Climbers In Camp 4 On K2

The international team of climbers on K2 continue their long, slow, exhausting summit bid today. The attempt started last Tuesday and as of yesterday, the four person group was into Camp 4, amidst good weather and near perfect conditions. But with lots of snow on the upper slopes, there are still plenty of hazards to overcome before they stand on top.

According to the latest update on Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's website, the team has elected to spend today in C4, where they'll rest and work on fixing lines. There are no ropes going to the summit, so they'll have to put them in place as they go, and considering this push has already gone on for two days longer than planned, they can use some time to recharge the batteries before the final ascent.

As expected, a weather window has indeed opened, and we're told that it has brought clear skies and virtually no wind. Above Camp 4 however, there is still waist deep snow that is impeding progress. They did manage to break a bit of trail and get a few lines in place before turning back to rest, and the hope is that tomorrow, they'll be able to cover the same ground much more quickly and move into an area with less snow. If that happens, they may have a real shot at reaching the summit.

In addition to Gerlinde, this team also includes Maxut Zhumayev, Vassily Pivtsov, and Darek Zaluski. The four are all that remain on the mountain, as all other teams have already left Base Camp and gone home for the year. Two other members of this team, Ralf Dujmovits and Tommy Henrich, have both descended back to BC, where they await their companions.

Stay tuned. Tomorrow will likely be the decisive day on K2 this year.

Karakoram 2011: K2 Team In Camp II

The weather on K2 cleared enough today for the four climbers still hoping for a chance at the summit to move up higher on the mountain. It wasn't easy though, as they reportedly had to wade through waist deep snow at times. The forecasts improve heading into the weekend however, and they are still planning a summit bid in the next few days.

According to both Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Maxut Zhumayev's home teams, the team arrived in Camp II at about 3:30 PM local time today. Gerlinde and Max are joined by Vassily Pivtsov and Darek Zaluski on this climb, and all four are said to be exhausted after another long day on the hill.

You may recall that yesterday it was reported that they were forced to camp between C1 and C2, as the heavy snow was making it very hard to break trail, and they were faced with the constant threat of avalanches as well. Fortunately they made it through that treacherous section, and now hope to have the weather on their side starting tomorrow.

The plan now is to go to Camp III tomorrow and overnight there. On Sunday, they'll push on to Camp IV and evaluate the conditions. If the weather holds, and they feel comfortable going higher, the four-person team will have a go at the summit.

Meanwhile, it is also being reported that Ralph Dujmovits and Tommy Henrich have both arrived safely back in BC. The two men turned back yesterday due to the conditions on the mountain and the fact that they felt it wasn't safe to climb higher. They'll now wait for their companions to descend before they all head home.

Good luck to the team this weekend!

Karakoram 2011: K2 Team Splits, Four Have Summit Dreams

The drama unfolding on K2 continues today with the news that the international team on the North Side of the mountain has now split into two units, with four climbers heading up to Camp II, while the rest abandon their climb and return to Base Camp.

According to a dispatch from Maxut Zhumayev this morning, the climbers moved up to an intermediate camp located at 6100 meters (20,013 ft) on the mountain. It was tough climbing as there is a lot of snow above Camp I, which ultimately forced them to stop short of their goal for the day, which was CII. Joining Max on the climb is fellow Kazakh and long time climbing partner Vassily Pivtsov, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, and Darek Zaluski.

Gerlinde's home team posted an update to her blog as well, noting that her long time climbing partner (and husband), Ralf Dujmovits has given up his attempt to summit K2 this year and is headed back down the mountain. He is joined by Tommy Henrich as well. Apparently, Ralf felt that the danger of avalanche was too great for him to proceed any higher.

The post also says that the four climbers have been making very slow progress thanks to the steady snows that have been falling all day. They'll now stay at the "rocky shoulder" and rest, before further evaluating their next move.

The weather forecasts indicated that conditions would improve as the week moved along, with a possible window opening over the weekend. They did expect some snow in the early part of the climb, but it sounds like they are getting far more than they had expected. Whether or not they'll actually get a chance at the summit remains to be seen, but it isn't looking all that promising at the moment, as they've also fallen off their schedule for a Sunday summit as well.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for this team to top out, but as we all know, K2 is not a mountain to take lightly. The conditions sound dicey at best, but things can change quickly. We'll now have to wait until tomorrow to see if they have a chance at moving higher.