Karakoram 2011: Summits On K2!!

The long weeks of hard work and patience have finally paid off on K2, where the news is coming in this morning that the international team has summited the mountain. Details are still a bit light, but late in the day Pakistan time, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Maxut Zumayev, and Vassiliy Pivtsov have topped out on the world's second highest peak. Derek Zaluski is said to be close behind, but as of this writing, not at the summit yet.

Gerlinde's website has been down for maintenance all day (How's that for timing?), but has just come back online to announce that she has reached the summit, with Max and Vassiliy close behind. The note alos says that Darek is trailing a bit, but should arrive shortly. That post came at 6:18 PM local time.

Their day began at 1:30AM this morning, when they started the final summit push. The team had spent a very cold night at 8300 meters (27,230 ft) and were anxious to get the final portion of their climb underway. Unfortunately, they found plenty of snow waiting for them, and they had to continue to break trail through waist deep powder for much of their way up. It is also an extremely cold day on the mountain, and all four are said to be suffering from the bitter temperature. That said, the winds are nearly non-existant and there isn't a cloud in the sky, so the weather window has held, even if the temperatures have dropped.

This is all welcome news, as these summits are the first since the tragic events of 2008 during which 11 people died on K2. Since that time, the mountain has turned back all challengers, including some of the most experienced and talented climbers on the planet.

It should also be noted that by completing this climb, Gerlinde has become the first woman to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen. That is a huge accomplishment as well, and she deserves all the accolades for pulling that off.

Of course, the climb isn't over just yet. They need to get back down safely as well, and considering how long they've been climbing already today, they are surely exhausted. They'll likely descend back to Camp 4, rest awhile, then continue down the mountain. Keep your fingers crossed for them until they are safely back in Base Camp. They're not safely off the "Savage Mountain" just yet.

Congrats to Gerlinde, Max, Vassiliy, and Darek on a job well done. Now get down safe!

Karakoram 2011: Climbers In Camp 4 On K2

The international team of climbers on K2 continue their long, slow, exhausting summit bid today. The attempt started last Tuesday and as of yesterday, the four person group was into Camp 4, amidst good weather and near perfect conditions. But with lots of snow on the upper slopes, there are still plenty of hazards to overcome before they stand on top.

According to the latest update on Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's website, the team has elected to spend today in C4, where they'll rest and work on fixing lines. There are no ropes going to the summit, so they'll have to put them in place as they go, and considering this push has already gone on for two days longer than planned, they can use some time to recharge the batteries before the final ascent.

As expected, a weather window has indeed opened, and we're told that it has brought clear skies and virtually no wind. Above Camp 4 however, there is still waist deep snow that is impeding progress. They did manage to break a bit of trail and get a few lines in place before turning back to rest, and the hope is that tomorrow, they'll be able to cover the same ground much more quickly and move into an area with less snow. If that happens, they may have a real shot at reaching the summit.

In addition to Gerlinde, this team also includes Maxut Zhumayev, Vassily Pivtsov, and Darek Zaluski. The four are all that remain on the mountain, as all other teams have already left Base Camp and gone home for the year. Two other members of this team, Ralf Dujmovits and Tommy Henrich, have both descended back to BC, where they await their companions.

Stay tuned. Tomorrow will likely be the decisive day on K2 this year.

Karakoram 2011: K2 Team In Camp II

The weather on K2 cleared enough today for the four climbers still hoping for a chance at the summit to move up higher on the mountain. It wasn't easy though, as they reportedly had to wade through waist deep snow at times. The forecasts improve heading into the weekend however, and they are still planning a summit bid in the next few days.

According to both Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Maxut Zhumayev's home teams, the team arrived in Camp II at about 3:30 PM local time today. Gerlinde and Max are joined by Vassily Pivtsov and Darek Zaluski on this climb, and all four are said to be exhausted after another long day on the hill.

You may recall that yesterday it was reported that they were forced to camp between C1 and C2, as the heavy snow was making it very hard to break trail, and they were faced with the constant threat of avalanches as well. Fortunately they made it through that treacherous section, and now hope to have the weather on their side starting tomorrow.

The plan now is to go to Camp III tomorrow and overnight there. On Sunday, they'll push on to Camp IV and evaluate the conditions. If the weather holds, and they feel comfortable going higher, the four-person team will have a go at the summit.

Meanwhile, it is also being reported that Ralph Dujmovits and Tommy Henrich have both arrived safely back in BC. The two men turned back yesterday due to the conditions on the mountain and the fact that they felt it wasn't safe to climb higher. They'll now wait for their companions to descend before they all head home.

Good luck to the team this weekend!

Karakoram 2011: K2 Team Splits, Four Have Summit Dreams

The drama unfolding on K2 continues today with the news that the international team on the North Side of the mountain has now split into two units, with four climbers heading up to Camp II, while the rest abandon their climb and return to Base Camp.

According to a dispatch from Maxut Zhumayev this morning, the climbers moved up to an intermediate camp located at 6100 meters (20,013 ft) on the mountain. It was tough climbing as there is a lot of snow above Camp I, which ultimately forced them to stop short of their goal for the day, which was CII. Joining Max on the climb is fellow Kazakh and long time climbing partner Vassily Pivtsov, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, and Darek Zaluski.

Gerlinde's home team posted an update to her blog as well, noting that her long time climbing partner (and husband), Ralf Dujmovits has given up his attempt to summit K2 this year and is headed back down the mountain. He is joined by Tommy Henrich as well. Apparently, Ralf felt that the danger of avalanche was too great for him to proceed any higher.

The post also says that the four climbers have been making very slow progress thanks to the steady snows that have been falling all day. They'll now stay at the "rocky shoulder" and rest, before further evaluating their next move.

The weather forecasts indicated that conditions would improve as the week moved along, with a possible window opening over the weekend. They did expect some snow in the early part of the climb, but it sounds like they are getting far more than they had expected. Whether or not they'll actually get a chance at the summit remains to be seen, but it isn't looking all that promising at the moment, as they've also fallen off their schedule for a Sunday summit as well.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for this team to top out, but as we all know, K2 is not a mountain to take lightly. The conditions sound dicey at best, but things can change quickly. We'll now have to wait until tomorrow to see if they have a chance at moving higher.

Karakoram 2011: It's Over On K2's South Side, North Side Teams Staying In Camp I

More updates from K2 today, as the team on the North Side stays put, while the final team on the South calls it quits.

Yesterday I posted the news that the international team on the North Side of the mountain had moved up to Camp I, where they were planning to evaluate the weather and conditions on the mountain before they proceeded any higher. Forecasts look good for the next few days, and it appears that there could be a weather window for a summit bid coming this weekend. Yesterday however, a lot of snow was deposited on the mountain once again, which has made conditions treacherous once again. Because of this, the team has elected to stay in Camp I for another day with the hopes that it will help clear some of the excess snow from the upper slopes.

According to Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits’ home team, the plan is to now head up to Camp II, located at 6600 meters (21,653 ft) tomorrow. Avalanches above CI have made the climb dangerous today, but apparently much of the loose snow has been sliding off the mountain, so they're feeling confident about their ability to climb higher tomorrow.

Spending an extra day in Camp I shouldn't impact the team's schedule much. They had already built in a one-day cushion for the climb and still expect to top out on Sunday, weather permitting.

Meanwhile, on the South Side of K2, Fabrizio Zangrilli and Kinga Baranowska have called it quits. After more than two months in Base Camp, the duo were running out of time and supplies, so they have elected to head home. In fact, Fabrizio says that they are already back in Islamabad, after spending three days trekking out and two more driving out of Skardu.

The decision came after climbing back up to Camp II and evaluating the conditions higher on the mountain. Zangrilli described them as "very dangerous" and with weather forecasts not looking particularly promising on their side of the mountain, he and Kinga thought it best to pull the plug. They are already planning a return for 2012 however, and wishing the North Side team the best of luck on their final bid.

So, we're down to just one team on K2. Will they be the ones to finally stand on top again? We'll find out this weekend.

Karakoram 2011: Final K2 Summit Bid Is Underway!

It has been a long season on K2 already, with many ups and downs along the way. But today, the climbers on the North Side of the mountain began their final climb, reaching Camp 1, as they make one last attempt on the summit this year.

According to an update posted to Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's site, the entire international team met for breakfast this morning and discussed their plans. Apparently after resting for a few days in the Chinese Base Camp, they are now more than ready to go back up. The weather reports look solid for the next few days, and they have moved up to C1 today, with an eye on reaching the summit by Sunday, August 21st.

According to Maxut Zhumayev, the weather should continue to get better as the week goes along, with the best window opening up on the weekend. Between now and then however, plenty of snow is expected on the higher elevations, which could make breaking trail to Camp 4 particularly challenging. Apparently the Kazakh climbers were able to work out their visa extensions as well, as Max and the rest of the crew are part of this summit push. He sent in a dispatch from Camp 1, informing us that they were all safely at their destination, and despite lots of snow, they intend to move up to C2 tomorrow and evaluate their situation from there. If the weather holds, and conditions are good, they'll keep moving up.

There has been no word from the K2's South Side as to whether or not Fabrizio Zangrilli and Kinga Baranowska will make another bid of their own. They've been in BC longer than anyone, and it appeared that they would be running low on supplies and time by the middle of this week, but if the weather looks good for them too, they may have it in them to give it one more go.

Stay tuned. This weekend will be the decisive days in the mountains for these climbers who have been extremely pa

Karakoram 2011: Still Waiting On K2 As Permits Expire

The climbing season in the Karakoram is starting to drag on longer than most expected, as bad weather and challenging conditions persist, particularly on K2, where the climbers are still holding out hope for a shot at the summit, even as their travel visas begin to expire.

According to a dispatch this morning from Maxut Zhumayev, the travel visas issued by the Chinese to him and the other Kazakh members of his squad have now expired. The visas are good for two months, and that is the amount of time that has elapsed since the start of their expedition, which means that is now illegal for them to climb K2. Max says that they are taking steps to renew their visas so that they can continue to climb, but at the moment, they can't go up the mountain even under the best of conditions.

Hopefully this issue will be sorted out soon, and the Kazakh climbers can join the rest of the International Team on the North Side of K2 in a summit bid soon. After spending two months trying to climb the world's second highest peak, they are more than ready to either go to the top or go home. As usual, the weather will dictate if, and when, they can make one final summit bid, but as the season grows longer, the chances of that happening begin to grow less.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits are also part of the North Side team and also remain in Base Camp, waiting for an opportunity to go up. They've posted a summary of the team's recent activity on the mountain with details on their climb up to Camp 4, as well as their descent back down to BC. At the moment, they are resting and recuperating from those efforts and, like everyone else, are waiting for the weather to give them the opportunity they need. Gerlinde and Ralf say that even if they don't summit however, this has been a successful and "enriching" experience for them, and they have enjoyed every day on the mountain.

While we haven't had an update from Fabrizio Zangrilli since last week, we're told that he and Kinga Baranowska are still in Base Camp on the South Side of K2 and are waiting for their opportunity as well. Time is probably running short for them however, as they were the first ones into BC and will now be the last to leave. In his last update, Fabrizio wrote that they could wait about 10 more days, which would put their estimated day of departure at about Wednesday of this week.

It appears that things are looking pretty grim right now for the remaining climbers on K2. I'd guess that if they don't have the weather window they need by the end of the week, they'll be heading home. There were some indications that a window could open starting tomorrow, but with visas in question and other things in flux, a climb may just not be in the picture these year.

Karakoram 2011: K2 Summit Bids Delayed Until Next Week

It looks like we'll have to wait until next week to see if anyone will be able to successfully climb K2 this season. There were some indications earlier in the week that teams would have another go at the summit this weekend, but high winds and snow are keeping everyone in Base Camp, at least for now.

According to a dispatch sent out yesterday by Maxut Zhumayev, the International Team on the mountain's North Side, will delay their attempt until August 16th, which is next Tuesday. He believes that this will probably be their final attempt of the year, as the Karakoram season is starting to run long, and the weather will soon make a shift for good. But there are projections of one more window next week, and they hope to take advantage of it.

Max notes that this delay is a good one. Not only does it give them an opportunity to rest and prepare for the challenges ahead, but it also will make for a safer climb as well. The high winds that are currently buffeting the mountain may help to clear some of the snow off of the peak, lowering the threat of avalanches and making it easier to break trail.

As I've mentioned before, there have been no summits of K2 since the tragic 2008 season. There is still a chance that that pattern could be broken, but we'll have to wait and see what next week brings. The prep work is all done, the high camps have been built and supplied, the lines are in place. All these climbers need is for the weather to give them an opportunity.

Karakoram 2011: All K2 Teams Back In BC

K2 continues to be an elusive summit for climbers once again this year, turning back the first wave of mountaineers over the weekend, while others prepared for their own assaults. Yesterday we had word that two Kazakh climbers had reached Camp 4 on the mountain, and indications were that they were hoping to go to the summit, but high winds and heavy snow have forced them back down the mountain, where they hope to get another chance to complete their climb.

Maxut Zhumayev  checked in today from Base Camp, where he says that their trek up the mountain was successful in that they not only reached Camp 4, but were able to construct two tents and establish a gear cache at that location. After that, the weather turned for the worse, and Max and his companion were forced back down the mountain.

They report that a lot of snow has fallen above their high camp and that there is a risk of avalanches that will make any attempt at the summit a treacherous affair. They've now joined a host of International climbers that include Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits in watching the weather and hoping for a window that they can take advantage of.

Max's report also says that they'll stay in BC for at least three days while they rest up from their climb up to Camp 4, which sits at about 8000 meters (26,246 ft). That would put the start of the next summit bid at Friday at the earliest. As always, Mother Nature and the mountain itself, will determine if a climb is even possible.

Karakoram 2011: K2 Turns Back First Assault, Teams Gearing Up For Another Go

While I was away in Salt Lake City attending this year's Outdoor Retailer convention (more on that later!), several of the teams on K2 were making summit bids. When we last checked in on them, they were safely into Camp 3 and preparing to go for the top on Friday. But high winds caused a delay until Saturday, and then ultimately resulted in all climbers heading down. For some, the season is now over, while others have chosen to wait and see if the Savage Mountain will give them another opportunity.

Fabrizio Zangrilli has a good write-up of the events of last week, which you can read here. He notes that the weather was good during the early part of the week, and that the teams took their time reaching the higher camps when they should have been pushing themselves a bit harder. As a result, they missed a projected weather window on the 4th, which would have given them access to the summit. Both Christian Stangl and Kinga Baranowska urged them to push to the summit, but they elected to stick to the original plan and spend an extra day on the way up. As a result, the group missed their opportunity to top out.

After this aborted attempt, the Field Touring Alpine squad, along with Stangl and Gerfried Goschl, as well as  a few other climbers have left Base Camp and are headed home. Fabrizio says that there is only one other team in BC now, and that they'll all wait another ten days or so to see if the weather will clear and give them another opportunity to summit. The forecasts are a bit varied at the moment, and the next few days don't look great, but they're hoping that something will open up later in the week.

Meanwhile, over on the North Side, the teams are preparing for their own summit bids. ExWeb reports today that Kazakh climber Maxut Zhummayev checked in from 7800 meters (25,590 ft) where they are pinned down in heavy snows and high winds. They're waiting to see if the weather clears before proceeding up, with the hopes of topping out tomorrow, although that is in jeopardy at the moment.

Finally, Gerlinde Kaltunbrunner and her teammates are back in BC on the North Side as well. She reports that they have now spent two nights at 8000 meters and have established all of their camps and set their ropes as well. They'll now rest for a few days, evaluate the weather, and decide from there if and when they can make a summit bid of their own.

The season in the Karakoram isn't quite over yet, although it is starting to look grim once again. There is still an outside chance of successful summits this year, but if not, it'll be three years since anyone has stood on top of K2. When you consider the number of people that summit Everest each year, you begin to realize just how challenging a climb this really is. Stay tuned to find out if anyone will make it this season.

Karakoram 2011: Climbers Reach Camp 3 On K2

Earlier this week we received word that a major summit push was underway on K2, as a group of climbers moved up the mountain along the Cesen Route to take advantage of good weather. That group consisted of climbers such as Alex Txikon, Fabrizio Zangrilli, Kinga Baranowska, Louis Stitzinger, Christian Stangl, and Gerfried Göschl, amongst others.

While there hasn't been a lot of updates from the climb just yet, Gerfried's home team has posted on their progress with the news this morning that the group has reached Camp 3 at 7100 meters (23,294 ft). Gerfried tells them that the weather has been good so far and that the team is feeling good and are confident about their possibilities. He also reports that at times the snow is knee-deep, slowing progress, but at other times it drops to ankle-deep, allowing them to make better time. High winds have also swept away much of the fresh snows higher on the mountain, which is giving them encouragement for what the conditions will be like when they move up closer to the summit.

Tomorrow, the plan is to make their way along the Shoulder and establish camp at 7800 meters (25,590 ft), which would put them in position to make the final summit push on Friday as expected. At the moment, it seems that the weather window may hold out, giving them a real chance of reaching the top. If they do, they'll be the first to summit K2 in three years, and it will be a personal vindication, and considerable redemption, for Stangl, after last year's controversy. Personally, I'm pulling for all of them, but would love to see Christian complete the climb.

I'll post updates as I get 'em!

Karakoram 2011: Summit Push On K2 Begins Now!

After weeks of preparations, acclimatization, and patiently waiting, it appears to be go time on K2, where several teams are preparing to head up today and begin a summit push. If they are successful, it'll be the first time that anyone has stood on top of that mountain since the tragic 2008 season, when 11 people perished on August 1st, which just so happens to also be today's date.

Fabrizio Zangrili has finally updated his blog for the first time in a month, and he notes that his team will begin moving up today. He has worked closely with Kinga Baranowska, Christian Stangl, Gerfried Goschl, Bruno Buchet and others to set the lines up to Camp 3, and they will all work together towards the summit. The plan is to set out at 2 AM local time tonight, with the hopes of topping out on Friday of this week, weather, and the mountain, permitting. They seem fairly confident about the weather window ahead, although there is a lot of snow on the higher sections of the mountain.

Joining that all-star group above will be several climbers from the Field Touring Alpine squad as well. In total, about 15 climbers will set out together later today, with the hopes that they'll reach Camp 2 tomorrow, Camp 3 on Wednesday, and Camp 4 on Thursday. If that plan comes together, they'll push to the summit on Friday.

Meanwhile, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and her team have returned to BC on the North Side of the mountain after spending some time resting and regaining strength at lower altitudes. They'll also begin an ascent today with the intent of going up to 8000 meters (26,246 ft) where they'll establish their Camp 4. Once that is accomplished, they'll evaluate their options and most likely decide if they're ready to go up to the summit, or return to BC as well. Once C4 is in place however, it is usually the launching pad to the top.

It looks like the first week of August is once again the busy time on K2. Good luck to all the climbers. We'll all be collectively holding our breaths until you get down safe.

Karakoram 2011: Accident On Broad Peak

Earlier in the week we had reports of several successful summits on Broad Peak, despite the weather there not being the most advantageous for climbing. A few days later we also get word of tragedy on that mountain, as one of the climbers fell to his death while descending.

Climber Rob Springer, who is part of the Field Touring Alpine squad, posted news of the accident on his blog today. Rob is on BP to acclimatize before jumping over to K2, which is his ultimate goal this summer in the Karakoram. He reports that five members of their team were on a summit bid a few days back when Chinese climber Jeff Wai Hung Chung slipped and fell more than 500 feet before landing in a crevice. All attempts to reach the fallen climber failed, and in the end he succumbed to his injuries.

My condolences to Jeff's friends, family and teammates.

Rob also tells us that three of the climbers on the FTA team did actually summit during their bid to take advantage of the small weather window. They were Sophie Denis, Wim Smets, Andre Bredenkamp. On the way down however, they had issues of their own when one of them tore a muscle in their leg, greatly slowing their descent. As a result, it took them 27 hours to complete the round trip from High Camp to summit and back. Thanks to the combined effort of the team, they are all down safe and sound now however.

Rob believes that the weather window on Broad Peak is now closed for the season, saying that if teams didn't go up during the two-day break they had, they most likely aren't going to be able to do so now. He's getting ready to head to K2 himself, and after a bout of food poisoning, he is happy that he didn't burn too much energy on the BP climb.

As usual in the Karakoram this year, the weather will dictate who gets the opportunity to climb on any of the peaks. It's going to be dicey for the foreseeable future, and you don't want to take any chances on K2.

Karakoram 2011: News From K2

While there have been a number of reports from Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums over the past week or so, including news on successful summits, there hasn't been many updates from K2. The climbers on that mountain have been working hard however, as they not only build camps and fix lines, but also acclimatize for the challenging climb ahead.

According to Maxut Zhumayev, the team of international climbers that he is a part of have completed fixing their lines up to Camp 3 at 7100 meters (23,293 ft). After spending some time, and considerable energy, at altitude however, they have now returned to BC where they are getting some much deserved rest and relaxation, including singing around the campfire and drinking beer from a jar. Maxut also describes the winds at the summit as a "hurricane" and reports that they'll now take a few days rest before proceeding back up the mountain.

Similarly, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is also part of the same team, and offers some insights as well. Their weather forecast had promised them decent conditions while they were on the mountain, but they deteriorated rather quickly once they got above ABC. The winds picked up and the snow began to fall, as the temperatures dropped, making it a much harder excursion than they had anticipated. Still, it sounds as if they accomplished their goals and everyone is feeling good. Gerlinde even says that they were ready to climb back up to C3 to spend the night and begin work on the route to Camp 4, but the weather deterred them, so they went back down to rest up instead.

Once Camp 4 is established, they'll begin eying the summit. It is the final camp before they make a run at the top. Spirits are high despite the fact that the climbers have been on the expedition for more than 40 days at this point, but the weather is expected to be bad for the next few days, so they'll sit tight and wait for a window. Time may be of the essence however, as it is nearly August, and they still have a lot of work to do before a summit bid can begin. The question now is will K2 turn back all challengers once again this year?

Karakoram 2011: Broad Peak Summits, Tragedy On GII

Over the weekend, several climbers on Broad Peak took advantage of a brief break in the weather to head up to the summit, while others used the time to further acclimatize. There was also sad news from Gasherbrum II, where a climber fell to her death on the descent.

As I mentioned last week, the weather reports on BP haven't been good for some time, but there were predictions of a very brief window opening over the weekend. As a result, several climbers moved up to high camps with the intention of taking advantage of lull in the winds and the hopes of grabbing the summit at last. According to ExWeb, four climbers were successful in that bid as Xavi Arias and Xavi Aymar both topped out, as did an unnamed French and Russian climber as well. The summits were achieved on Friday in high winds, and according to the British Team on the mountain, it was a 30 hour round trip push from Camp 3 to the summit and back. At the time of their update, they were still waiting on these climbers to come down. That same team of climbers from the U.K. sent their squad up as high as C3 as part of the acclimatization process over the weekend as well. They report that things are progressing well, although they're still waiting on a weather window to allow them to finish off the climb.

We also have news this morning from the Field Touring Alpine team has put three climbers on top today. They sent five up to the summit despite the winds, and two turned back, while three were able to successfully stand on top. This is great news, as ExWeb points out that we had heard reports that the team was heading home just last week.

One team that has decided to pull the plug is the Altitude Junkies. They waited until the last possible moment, but with weather forecasts all sounding sketchy at best, they've decided it is best to call it a season on BP. In their latest dispatch, they explain the various weather forecasts that are being used by the teams on the mountain and why it causes problems and confusion at times. The climbers on this team have been waiting for three weeks for a chance to go up, but it simply isn't in the cards this year.

Finally, ExWeb is also reporting that a climber has fallen to her death on Gasherbrum II after a successful summit. Iranian climber Leila Esfandyari was on her way down to Camp 3 when she fell, but other than that few details are offered. She was part of a squad that put four climbers on top, and there were reportedly 15 summits on Friday on GII.

Condolences to her team, friends, and family.

Karakoram 2011: Summits on Gasherbrum II

Despite bad weather across much of the region, the Karakoram climbing season continues to unfold. Yesterday there was more action on the Gasherbrums, while climbers on Broad Peak hope to take a shot at the summit and have moved themselves into position as well.

Over on Gasherbrum II, Alex Txikon has reached the top just nine days after summiting GI. According to the dispatch on his website, he is tired but excited to have bagged his second 8000 meter peak of the summer. He's not done yet either, as Txikon will now move on to K2, where he hopes to add yet another big mountain to his resume.

Carlos Pauner also topped out on GII, nabbing his 12th 8000-meter peak in the process. His dispatch reports that it took Pauner 11 hours of climbing to reach the summit, and that his intentions were to drop down to Camp III before taking a rest. But the descent won't be an easy one, as there are no fixed lines to the summit, so they'll be down-climbing without ropes.

Meanwhile, some teams on Broad Peak have moved into position with hopes of a summit attempt on Sunday. The weather reports have indicated that bad weather is expected over the peak well into next week, which has convinced some teams to go home, while others are pinning their hopes on a narrow window of calmer winds that are expected on the 24th. As a result, acclimatized teams are getting themselves up to Camp 3 with the hopes of making a dash to the summit if the winds do actually calm some.

For many of these climbers, K2 is looming, so they need to finish up their efforts and head to that mountain – a mountain that is as unforgiving as they come.

Karakoram 2011: Weather Window Slammed Shut

Heading into the week, all of the weather forecasts indicated that there would be a couple of days of great weather in the Karakoram, which could give some of the teams a chance at their respective summits. But the weather in the mountains is fickle to say the least, and it now seems that that window won't open after all, which means the teams will continue to wait, while Mother Nature ponders their fate.

The British Broad Peak team posted an update his morning that confirms that high winds and generally poor conditions have hit the upper-reaches of the mountain. The team had hoped to make a summit bid early next week, but their advance team was turned back from Camp 1 yesterday, and the long range forecasts are ominous to say the least. They'll hold position for the next week, and hope for the best, although things aren't looking all that promising at the moment.

Meanwhile, the Brits say that two of the commercial teams on BP have decided to call it quits and head home. Amongst them is the Altitude Junkies, who haven't mentioned their immanent departure on their own website yet, although their last dispatch does mention the incredibly high winds that are buffeting the mountain at the moment.

The Field Touring Alpine squad sent out an audio dispatch yesterday and confirmed that echos the reports of bad weather on Broad Peak, and across the Karakoram actually. But their forecasts seem to indicate that another window could open early next week, which could give them one last crack at the summit. After that, it's on to K2, where their camps are already being built and supplies are being delivered.

Speaking of K2, there hasn't been a whole lot of news coming out of Base Camp there, so we can only assume that everyone is too busy establishing their high camps and acclimatizing to the altitude. There are a number of teams on the mountain already, but I haven't received many dispatches from any of them for awhile now. The focus in the Karakoram will soon shift to that mountain, as traditionally the early part of August is when climbers make their summit pushes on that incredibly tough peak. Earlier this week, Maxut Zhumayev did mention that his team was in the process of establishing camp at 7100-7400 meters (24,000 ft) but there was no word on when summit pushes would begin.

Finally, Alberto Zerain has climbed up to Camp 1 on Nanga Parbet, where he is keeping a close eye on the weather. It has been incredibly bad there as well, with lots of wind and rain, but it appears that there may be a summit window opening now, and he hopes to be in position to take advantage of it should it happen.

It seems no matter which mountain you visit, it is always the same story. We are all at the mercy of the weather.

Karakoram 2011: Summits On GI!

As mentioned earlier in the week, a projected weather window has indeed opened in the Karakoram, bringing clear skies and a temporary respite from the high winds and snow that have been prevalent there for the past few weeks. Because of this, several teams who moved up to high camps a few days back, have been in position to take advantage of the change in weather, with a few summits taking place at last.

Among those topping out today are Gerfried Goschl and Hans Wenzl, who reached the summit of Gasherbrum I this morning. They were joined at the summit by Basque climber Carlos Tamayo as well, reaching the top in 7.5 hours from Camp 3. Also checking in from the summit is Alex Txikon, who reports that in addition to the names above, Louis Rousseau, and Juanra Madariaga have successfully reached the 8080 meter (26,509 ft) summit.

Congrats to everyone who reached the top! A number of these climbers will now go on to K2 for an attempt at a second 8000 meter peak this summer.

Meanwhile, over on Broad Peak, the Field Touring Alpine squad checked in and reported that the weather was better, but due to the heavy snow on the higher slopes, they were sitting out this summit bid in favor of another one that is expected to come next week. They're hoping that the extra time will help to allow the snow to settle, making it easier to avoid avalanches and safer all around. They're staying put in Base Camp for now.

The Altitude Junkies are in a similar position, and are waiting for next week's weather window as well. They climbed up to Camp 1 yesterday just to survey the situation, and report that there were a number of teams on the mountain, including two making their summit bids right now. Other teams had just arrived in BC and were starting their first acclimatization rotations during the current spell of good weather. The winds are expected to pick-up over the weekend, sending everyone back down the mountain, but good weather is in the forecast for next week, when they'll make their attempt at the top.

There are several teams using BP as their acclimatization climb before heading to K2 as well. I'm sure they're all eager to finish up and head to that peak, where everyone is still waiting for good weather while they fix lines, build camps, and get use to the altitude. After a two year drought, perhaps someone will finally stand on top of that mountain again.

Karakoram 2011: Summit Bids In Progress

Teams on both Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums have been waiting on a weather window to materialize, and while conditions were not great over the weekend, the forecast for the week ahead is a promising one, which has prompted some to begin their summit push, while others take a wait-and-see approach.

According to Rob Springer, who is climbing as part of the Field Touring Alpine squad, the team started their bid on BP yesterday, with the climbers heading up to Camp 2. Rob says that a lot of snow has fallen in the area in recent days, so breaking trail is going to be tough, but the team is ready to make an attempt while the weather holds out. If all goes as planned, they should have arrived in Camp 3 today, where they'll rest for a day and a half before hopefully topping out on Wednesday of this week.

Not everyone is confident in the weather however, as the latest dispatch from the Altitude Junkies indicates that they plan to stay in Base Camp and let things settle down before heading up. They are particularly nervous about the snows above Camp 2, which could be treacherous considering how much accumulation they've seen the past few days. The team is hoping the sun will show itself soon to help melt and solidify the situation.

Staying on Broad Peak, the British BP team arrived in Base Camp on Friday and will now begin their acclimatization process as well. They noted that even the trek in was more challenging than they thought, and that heavy snows are making it difficult to go anywhere at the moment. They attempted to make their first run up to Camp 1 in hopes of carrying gear and building their first caches, but they turned back halfway to their goal due to knee deep snow. They're hoping to give it another go tomorrow however, with the entire team pitching in.

Over on the Gasherbrums, there are similar stories to these. The weather has continued to be a challenge but some teams are hoping to make a summit push this week. Those include Alex Txikon's team, who hope to top out on Wednesday and  Gerfried Göschl group, which has reached Camp 2 today. Gerfried reports that the weather was treacherous all the way up, but looks to improve tomorrow, hopefully allowing them to go to the summit.

Not everyone has found success in the Karakoram this summer, as the Kobler team has left the Gasherbrums simply because they ran out of time. Bad weather prevented them from getting any higher than Camp 2, and now they have to depart in order to catch flights back home. Other teams are in a similar boat throughout the region, which means it is now or never for some of the climbers.

Meanwhile, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has checked in from BC on K2. She and her team arrived their early in the month, and have been busy setting up camp ever since. They have established their ABC at 4650 meters (15,255 ft), which is about halfway between the traditional BC (or "Italian Camp") and ABC ("Chinese Camp"). Apparently, the porters they hired found the work far too difficult, and threatened to quit, so they compromised on where the gear would be carried to. At the moment, Gerlinde, Ralf, and the rest of the team are back in BC and watching the weather, as the snow continues to fall on K2 as well. It is going to be another very rough and challenging season on that mountain it seems.

Karakoram 2011: Dramatic Rescue On Gasherbrums

On Monday of this week, a dramatic and scary rescue took place on the Gasherbrums when a number of teams helped to safely bring a Pakistani porter down from the mountain. Unfortunately, according to this report from ExWeb, the Japanese team that had employed him was not amongst those trying to rescue him.

According to the story, the porter took ill on a climb up to Camp 1, located at about 5900 meters (19,356 feet) and had to be assisted down. ExWeb says that the man was bleeding from both the mouth and nose and could barely walk 20 steps without having to stop and rest. Three porters and a Sherpa from a Swiss team were the first to lend him aid and start the rescue process.

Once the news hit Base Camp of a sick climber, teams began to organize to try to help bring the porter down. Louis Rousseau and José Tamayo were the first to respond, bringing a stretcher and oxygen up to help in the descent. Shortly there after, a host of glimbers on Gerfried Göschl's team set out to lend a hand as well.

The first climbers on the rescue team reached the descending porters at 5500 meters (18,044 feet) and over the course of the next six hours, they slowly brought the sick man back down to BC, passing through a heavily crevassed ice fall in the process.

According to the report on ExWeb, the Japanese team that employed the porter was unable to organize a rescue and didn't participate once the other teams did get organized. Without knowing all the details, I hate to be too critical, but it seems that at least the team's leaders could have helped on some level. Considering the altitude at which this all took place, I wouldn't think that everyone on the team was exhausted and unable to go back up and help out.

Fortunately, the Pakistani man was still alive when the team arrived in BC. Prospects for his survival are quite good, although it can always be a bit dicey for a few days after a brush with altitude sickness. Hopefully he'll be fine and back home soon.