Karakoram 2011: Broad Peak Summits, Tragedy On GII

Over the weekend, several climbers on Broad Peak took advantage of a brief break in the weather to head up to the summit, while others used the time to further acclimatize. There was also sad news from Gasherbrum II, where a climber fell to her death on the descent.

As I mentioned last week, the weather reports on BP haven't been good for some time, but there were predictions of a very brief window opening over the weekend. As a result, several climbers moved up to high camps with the intention of taking advantage of lull in the winds and the hopes of grabbing the summit at last. According to ExWeb, four climbers were successful in that bid as Xavi Arias and Xavi Aymar both topped out, as did an unnamed French and Russian climber as well. The summits were achieved on Friday in high winds, and according to the British Team on the mountain, it was a 30 hour round trip push from Camp 3 to the summit and back. At the time of their update, they were still waiting on these climbers to come down. That same team of climbers from the U.K. sent their squad up as high as C3 as part of the acclimatization process over the weekend as well. They report that things are progressing well, although they're still waiting on a weather window to allow them to finish off the climb.

We also have news this morning from the Field Touring Alpine team has put three climbers on top today. They sent five up to the summit despite the winds, and two turned back, while three were able to successfully stand on top. This is great news, as ExWeb points out that we had heard reports that the team was heading home just last week.

One team that has decided to pull the plug is the Altitude Junkies. They waited until the last possible moment, but with weather forecasts all sounding sketchy at best, they've decided it is best to call it a season on BP. In their latest dispatch, they explain the various weather forecasts that are being used by the teams on the mountain and why it causes problems and confusion at times. The climbers on this team have been waiting for three weeks for a chance to go up, but it simply isn't in the cards this year.

Finally, ExWeb is also reporting that a climber has fallen to her death on Gasherbrum II after a successful summit. Iranian climber Leila Esfandyari was on her way down to Camp 3 when she fell, but other than that few details are offered. She was part of a squad that put four climbers on top, and there were reportedly 15 summits on Friday on GII.

Condolences to her team, friends, and family.

Karakoram 2011: Summits on Gasherbrum II

Despite bad weather across much of the region, the Karakoram climbing season continues to unfold. Yesterday there was more action on the Gasherbrums, while climbers on Broad Peak hope to take a shot at the summit and have moved themselves into position as well.

Over on Gasherbrum II, Alex Txikon has reached the top just nine days after summiting GI. According to the dispatch on his website, he is tired but excited to have bagged his second 8000 meter peak of the summer. He's not done yet either, as Txikon will now move on to K2, where he hopes to add yet another big mountain to his resume.

Carlos Pauner also topped out on GII, nabbing his 12th 8000-meter peak in the process. His dispatch reports that it took Pauner 11 hours of climbing to reach the summit, and that his intentions were to drop down to Camp III before taking a rest. But the descent won't be an easy one, as there are no fixed lines to the summit, so they'll be down-climbing without ropes.

Meanwhile, some teams on Broad Peak have moved into position with hopes of a summit attempt on Sunday. The weather reports have indicated that bad weather is expected over the peak well into next week, which has convinced some teams to go home, while others are pinning their hopes on a narrow window of calmer winds that are expected on the 24th. As a result, acclimatized teams are getting themselves up to Camp 3 with the hopes of making a dash to the summit if the winds do actually calm some.

For many of these climbers, K2 is looming, so they need to finish up their efforts and head to that mountain – a mountain that is as unforgiving as they come.

Karakoram 2011: Summits On GI!

As mentioned earlier in the week, a projected weather window has indeed opened in the Karakoram, bringing clear skies and a temporary respite from the high winds and snow that have been prevalent there for the past few weeks. Because of this, several teams who moved up to high camps a few days back, have been in position to take advantage of the change in weather, with a few summits taking place at last.

Among those topping out today are Gerfried Goschl and Hans Wenzl, who reached the summit of Gasherbrum I this morning. They were joined at the summit by Basque climber Carlos Tamayo as well, reaching the top in 7.5 hours from Camp 3. Also checking in from the summit is Alex Txikon, who reports that in addition to the names above, Louis Rousseau, and Juanra Madariaga have successfully reached the 8080 meter (26,509 ft) summit.

Congrats to everyone who reached the top! A number of these climbers will now go on to K2 for an attempt at a second 8000 meter peak this summer.

Meanwhile, over on Broad Peak, the Field Touring Alpine squad checked in and reported that the weather was better, but due to the heavy snow on the higher slopes, they were sitting out this summit bid in favor of another one that is expected to come next week. They're hoping that the extra time will help to allow the snow to settle, making it easier to avoid avalanches and safer all around. They're staying put in Base Camp for now.

The Altitude Junkies are in a similar position, and are waiting for next week's weather window as well. They climbed up to Camp 1 yesterday just to survey the situation, and report that there were a number of teams on the mountain, including two making their summit bids right now. Other teams had just arrived in BC and were starting their first acclimatization rotations during the current spell of good weather. The winds are expected to pick-up over the weekend, sending everyone back down the mountain, but good weather is in the forecast for next week, when they'll make their attempt at the top.

There are several teams using BP as their acclimatization climb before heading to K2 as well. I'm sure they're all eager to finish up and head to that peak, where everyone is still waiting for good weather while they fix lines, build camps, and get use to the altitude. After a two year drought, perhaps someone will finally stand on top of that mountain again.

Karakoram 2011: Summit Bids In Progress

Teams on both Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums have been waiting on a weather window to materialize, and while conditions were not great over the weekend, the forecast for the week ahead is a promising one, which has prompted some to begin their summit push, while others take a wait-and-see approach.

According to Rob Springer, who is climbing as part of the Field Touring Alpine squad, the team started their bid on BP yesterday, with the climbers heading up to Camp 2. Rob says that a lot of snow has fallen in the area in recent days, so breaking trail is going to be tough, but the team is ready to make an attempt while the weather holds out. If all goes as planned, they should have arrived in Camp 3 today, where they'll rest for a day and a half before hopefully topping out on Wednesday of this week.

Not everyone is confident in the weather however, as the latest dispatch from the Altitude Junkies indicates that they plan to stay in Base Camp and let things settle down before heading up. They are particularly nervous about the snows above Camp 2, which could be treacherous considering how much accumulation they've seen the past few days. The team is hoping the sun will show itself soon to help melt and solidify the situation.

Staying on Broad Peak, the British BP team arrived in Base Camp on Friday and will now begin their acclimatization process as well. They noted that even the trek in was more challenging than they thought, and that heavy snows are making it difficult to go anywhere at the moment. They attempted to make their first run up to Camp 1 in hopes of carrying gear and building their first caches, but they turned back halfway to their goal due to knee deep snow. They're hoping to give it another go tomorrow however, with the entire team pitching in.

Over on the Gasherbrums, there are similar stories to these. The weather has continued to be a challenge but some teams are hoping to make a summit push this week. Those include Alex Txikon's team, who hope to top out on Wednesday and  Gerfried Göschl group, which has reached Camp 2 today. Gerfried reports that the weather was treacherous all the way up, but looks to improve tomorrow, hopefully allowing them to go to the summit.

Not everyone has found success in the Karakoram this summer, as the Kobler team has left the Gasherbrums simply because they ran out of time. Bad weather prevented them from getting any higher than Camp 2, and now they have to depart in order to catch flights back home. Other teams are in a similar boat throughout the region, which means it is now or never for some of the climbers.

Meanwhile, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has checked in from BC on K2. She and her team arrived their early in the month, and have been busy setting up camp ever since. They have established their ABC at 4650 meters (15,255 ft), which is about halfway between the traditional BC (or "Italian Camp") and ABC ("Chinese Camp"). Apparently, the porters they hired found the work far too difficult, and threatened to quit, so they compromised on where the gear would be carried to. At the moment, Gerlinde, Ralf, and the rest of the team are back in BC and watching the weather, as the snow continues to fall on K2 as well. It is going to be another very rough and challenging season on that mountain it seems.

Karakoram 2011: Dramatic Rescue On Gasherbrums

On Monday of this week, a dramatic and scary rescue took place on the Gasherbrums when a number of teams helped to safely bring a Pakistani porter down from the mountain. Unfortunately, according to this report from ExWeb, the Japanese team that had employed him was not amongst those trying to rescue him.

According to the story, the porter took ill on a climb up to Camp 1, located at about 5900 meters (19,356 feet) and had to be assisted down. ExWeb says that the man was bleeding from both the mouth and nose and could barely walk 20 steps without having to stop and rest. Three porters and a Sherpa from a Swiss team were the first to lend him aid and start the rescue process.

Once the news hit Base Camp of a sick climber, teams began to organize to try to help bring the porter down. Louis Rousseau and José Tamayo were the first to respond, bringing a stretcher and oxygen up to help in the descent. Shortly there after, a host of glimbers on Gerfried Göschl's team set out to lend a hand as well.

The first climbers on the rescue team reached the descending porters at 5500 meters (18,044 feet) and over the course of the next six hours, they slowly brought the sick man back down to BC, passing through a heavily crevassed ice fall in the process.

According to the report on ExWeb, the Japanese team that employed the porter was unable to organize a rescue and didn't participate once the other teams did get organized. Without knowing all the details, I hate to be too critical, but it seems that at least the team's leaders could have helped on some level. Considering the altitude at which this all took place, I wouldn't think that everyone on the team was exhausted and unable to go back up and help out.

Fortunately, the Pakistani man was still alive when the team arrived in BC. Prospects for his survival are quite good, although it can always be a bit dicey for a few days after a brush with altitude sickness. Hopefully he'll be fine and back home soon.

Karakoram 2011: Video From Gasherbrum

Ever wonder what it is like to climb in the Karakoram this time of year? Then check out the video below that comes our way courtesy of Gerfried Göschl's team that is climbing Gasherbrum I and II as a warm-up to K2 this year. The video shows you exactly why the Karakoram is such a difficult range, as even in July, there is plenty of snow to go around.



Camp 2 pourpour Louis et son équipe - G1 from KURV.TV on Vimeo.

Karakoram 2011: Bad Weather Hits The Karakoram

Since ou

r last update on the 2011 climbing season in the Karakoram, more teams have arrived in their respective Base Camps, but many have been held back from climbing much higher thanks to bad weather. This is typical of the early part of the season, and at this point no one is panicking, although if conditions remain bad, it could impact their ability to acclimatize.

Fabrizio Zangrilli reports that his team arrived in Base Camp on K2 over the weekend, after just a five day journey in from Askoli. But heavy snows at BC have forced them to wait for the expected change in weather. For now, they sit and wait, resting and eating, and preparing for the opportunity to go up. Meanwhile, we also get word that Christian Stangl has left for Pakistan, and is expected to be in K2 BC in a week or two.

The Field Touring Alpine squad will eventually head over to K2 as well, but they've been acclimatizing on Broad Peak. After spending three nights at Camp 3, the team has descended to Base Camp, where the weather has put them in a holding pattern for now as well. They are hoping to begin their summit bids on either Wednesday or Thursday of this week, before they jump over to the second objective. Similarly, the Altitude Junkies are also in BC on Broad Peak and are waiting for a weather window of their own.

Over on the Gasherbrum Massif, Gerfried Göschl checks in with the news that his team has also completed a round of acclimatization and are resting before heading back up for more. The team is hoping to summit both GI and GII, and while things are going well on the first of those peaks, Gerfried reports that avalanche dangers on GII are keeping them from going higher than 6200 meters (20,341 feet) at the moment. They're hoping that will change in the days ahead.

It seems that if everything goes as planned, we could see a few summits in the Karakoram later this week, particularly on Broad Peak. We're weeks away from summit bids on K2 at this point however, which is were the real action will be heading into August.

Karakoram 2011: Teams Arriving In Base Camps

News from the Karakoram has been a bit slow thus far this year, in part because most of the climbers have still been en route to their intended peaks. Travel has been made all the more challenging, as some have had to make the trip overland while flights have been grounded throughout the region. But, the teams have begun arriving at last and have started their acclimatization process.

While the Karakoram has plenty of majestic and challenging peaks, the crown jewel is of course K2. Gerfried Göschl and his team hope to eventually give that mountain a go, along a new route no less. But they arrived in Base Camp on Gasherbrum I last Thursday, where they will make a warm-up climb first, then assess their chances of a summit on the world's second highest mountain. Reportedly, the team was headed up to Camp 1, located at 5900 meters (19,356 feet) over the weekend, but they are expected back in BC today to report on their progress thus far.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and her squad should be at K2 Base Camp by now, although she hasn't posted any updates since she set out for the Karakoram nearly two weeks ago. She is hoping to finish off the last of the 8000 meter peaks on her list. Also reportedly on her way to BC is Kinga Baranowska, the talented Polish mountaineer who has already topped out on Dhaluagiri, Kangchenjunga, Cho Oyu, and numerous other peaks. She's hoping to add the Savage Mountain to her resume as well. There are some indications that Christian Stangl may climb under the same permit as Kinga as well.

Meanwhile, according to Everest News, the Polish-Ukraining team led by Jacek Teler has arrived on the Gasherbrums and has already begun working the mountain. The team hopes to go for a double summit of GI and GII, and have already started establishing their high camps in preparation.

Finally, contrary to earlier reports that Ueli Steck would be in the Karakoram this summer, the Swiss climber has decided to pass on the season there. No word yet on what the speed climber will be up to next, but I'm sure he'll be planning and training for something.

Stay tuned. Hopefully we'll get more detailed and updated reports form Pakistan soon.

Karakoram 2011: A New Season Begins

With the 2011 Himalaya climbing season now officially in our rear view mirror, it is time for the world's top climbers to start focusing on the Karakoram and the challenges that come along with climbing in that range.

Stretching across Pakistan, India, and China, the Karakoram range contains some of the most challenging peaks on the planet. It is home to one of the highest concentrations of mountains found anywhere as well, which makes it a popular summer mountaineering destination, which is about the only time of the year that the weather is good enough to allow safe climbing. Amongst the coveted summits in the Karakoram are Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, the Gasherbrums, and of course, the infamous K2.

ExWeb has an early season report posted that takes a look at some of the more interesting expeditions set to take place in the Karakoram this year. Amongst them are Christian Stangl, who returns to K2 seeking redemption after last year's debacle. You may recall that last year, Stangl fabricated a summit photo and made a false claim to having reached the top of the mountain. Hopefully he'll be able to top out this year, and put that whole affair behind him.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is also heading to K2, although she'll be climbing from the North Side. Gerlinde has attempted K2 several times in the past, and so far the summit has remained elusive. She hopes to change that this year, and by doing so, complete her final 8000 meter peak.

It seems that there are a number of teams gearing up for Gasherbrums I and II, including Gerfried  Göschl, Kari Kobler, and Ueli Steck, who comes off the spring with two successful summits in the Himalaya, and a bit of a disappointment on Everest. In fact, it seems thats where the early climbers are headed first, as ExWeb reports that one of the Gasherbrum teams has already met in Skardu (Pakistan) and is preparing to begin the trek to Base Camp, while another is already en route. That second team has two female climbers,  Aleksandra "Ola" Dzik of Poland and Ukrainian Maria Khitrikova, who will attempt the first female double header of both GI and GII.

The Karakoram season is just gearing up, so expect lots of news from the region in the days ahead. The big question this year is whether or not someone will finally summit K2 again. It has been nearly three years since someone stood on top of that mountain.

Trailer For High Altitude Mountaineering Film Cold

What's it like to climb Gasherbrum II, the 8035 meter (26,362 ft) Pakistani peak in February? Apparently it is Cold. That is exactly the feeling you get from the trailer below, which is for a film that chronicles that very climb, undertaken by the likes of Corey Richards, Simon Moro and Denis Urubko. The film looks to be one to keep an eye on, as it seems to have captured both the beauty and the agony of high altitude mountaineering. Beautiful stuff.



COLD - TRAILER from Anson Fogel on Vimeo.

Climbing and Descending Gasherbrum II In Winter

Back on February 2nd, Denis Urubko, Simone Moro, and Cory Richards completed the first winter summit of Gasherbrum II, the 13th tallest mountain on the planet at 8035 meters (26,363 ft). It was the first successful winter ascent of any of the 8000 meter peaks in the Karakoram range as well, and a spectacular accomplishment to say the least.

The trio has posted a number of video dispatches to the North Face Journal, a blog that covers athletes sponsored by the gear manufacturer. Amongst those dispatches are the two videos below, one of which shows the amazing ascent to the summit and the other is of the equally treacherous descent, during which they were beset by avalanches. Both videos are beautifully shot, which is amazing in and of itself, and both are excellent examples of what high altitude mountaineering is all about.

GII Winter Expedition | Dispatch # 4 | The way up to the summit from story.teller on Vimeo.

GII Winter Expedition | Dispatch # 5 | The long way down from story.teller on Vimeo.

Climbers Make First Winter Ascent of Gasherbrum II

Another major event in the world of mountaineering went down while I was away in Africa, as climbers Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards completed the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, the 13th highest peak in the world.

The team had been working the mountain for several weeks, but once prepared, they completed the climb in just three days. The trio finished their summit push on February 2nd, reaching the top of the 8035 meter (26,363 ft) mountain. While climbing any Himalayan peak in the winter is always a challenge, the descent wasn't all that easy either. The three men faced increasingly bad weather on the descent and according to the Outside Blog, the team was also hit by an avalanche on the way down, but managed to escape without any serious injuries. They returned to Base Camp last Friday, February 4th, bringing an end to a very successful expedition.

This winter ascent marks the first time that any of the five 8000 meter peaks located in Pakistan's Karaoram range has been climbed during the winter. GII is considered the easiest of those mountains to scale, with the other four, which includes Gasherbrum I and K2, ramping up significantly in challenge.

Congrats to Simone, Denis, and Cory on a job well done. Conquering any major peak in the winter is a significant accomplishment, but knocking off an 8-thousander in the coldest month of the year is impressive indeed. Well done chaps!

Karakorum 2010: Weather Delays On K2

It has been a busy week throughout the Karakorum range, where climbers have topped out on a number of mountains, but all eyes are now turning towards K2, as teams there prepare to make their summit bids, with a new weather window expected to open early next week.

According to ExWeb, a new weather forecast has now moved the K2 summit window to Tuesday of next week, and teams are adjusting their schedule appropriately. A number of climbers are planning on setting off tomorrow, with an eye on hitting the summit on schedule with the new weather window. Amongst them are Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner who is hoping to become the first woman to climb all fourteen 8000 meter peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Fredrik Ericsson and Trey Cook are also hoping to go up tomorrow, with the eventual goal of making a ski descent of the mountain. On their blog, Trey has posted a story that explains how it is possible that Bulgarian cimber Petar Unzhiev died earlier this week while in Camp 2 on the mountain, without anyone knowing. It seems that Petar arrived at BC, but proceeded up the mountain far too quickly, skipping past ABC and moving on to Camp 1. After spending the night there, he would have normally gone back down the mountain to recover, but instead, he and his high altitude porter, chose to move up to Camp 2 instead. Other climbers heard Petar in his tent with very labored breathing, but they assumed that his porter was watching out for him. As it turns out, the porter had gone down to BC without alerting anyone, and it seems that Unzhiev developed and succumbed to HACE in the process. A very sad story that should provide a number of lessons for high altitude mountaineers. 


Also headed to K2 are the Field Touring Alpine Team, who have finished their acclimatization on Broad Peak, and are now moving to K2 Base Camp. While the team didn't summit on BP, they are now hoping to take advantage of their experience on that mountain to knock of K2 instead. They are eying the weather window for early next week as well, but are also considering a second window which is in the forecast for the 30th of the month, so it seems they are in no rush to scramble up the mountain. 


A few days back there was quite a bit of action on the Gasherbrums where Colombian climber Felipe Ossa became the first person this season to scale GI. Next door, on GII, the Altitude Junkies put several of their climbers on the summit, while the Czech team of Petr Masek, Radek Jaros, and Libor Uher also topped out, but are still only halfway to their goal. That team of strong climbers hopes to knock off GI yet this season as well, claiming a Karakorum double-header on the Gasherbrums.

It seems the teams on K2 are the ones gearing up for action now. This weekend will likely be spent heading up the mountain and waiting for the weather window to appear on Tuesday. Lets hope everything goes well, and everyone climbs very safely. We all know what this mountain is capable of.

Karakorum 2010: Mixed Results and Tragedy on K2

It was a bit of a mixed bag for teams across the Karakorum this weekend. While the weather window opened as expected, copious amounts of snow high on the mountains prevented many from reaching their goals. Still, there were some successful summits and word of a death on K2.

ExWeb is reporting this morning that Bulgarian climber Petar Georgiev Unzhiev passed away on K2 this weekend, succumbing to altitude sickness at Camp 2. He was climbing as part of the Adventure Tours Pakistan team, and other than receiving word from his family to bury him at C2, not much else is known about the situation. My condolences go out to Petar's friends and family. 


Staying on K2, we received word over the weekend that Christian Stangl has returned to the mountain to make another attempt at a speed record. The Austrian climber turned back last year 316 meters beneath the summit, and he's hoping that he can finish the job this year. ExWeb says that now that he's set the speed record for completing all of the Seven Summits, he's going for the "Second Seven", or the second highest mountain on each of the seven continents. Next up, he'll return to Antarctica and go for Mount Tyree.


Meanwhile, over on Broad Peak, the Basque BAT Team hoped to complete their traverse of the mountain's three summits this weekend, and they were successful after a couple of very long days in the mountains. They also managed to establish a new route in the process, marking the first new route by a Basque team on an 8000-meter peak. Check out their video below for more. 


Also on Broad Peak, explorer Mike Horn and climbing partner Kobi Reichen reached the summit over the weekend as well. The duo climbed without the use of supplemental oxygen, topping out at 2 AM local time. The long climb followed nearly three weeks of waiting patiently for the weather to clear and for the massive amounts of snow on the summit to come down in the form of avalanches. 


The Field Touring Alpine squad weren't so lucky with their ascent. They called off their planned summit bid just below the Col on BP due to heavy amounts of snow along their route. On Saturday they were all back in C3 and in good health and spirits, and there has been no word yet if they'll have another go at the summit or if they'll just proceed to K2 now. 


On the Gasherbrums it was success for one team while another turned back. The Czech team on GII topped out on Saturday and was back in BC safe and sound yesterday afternoon. Don Bowie and Alexey Bolotov didn't have the same luck on GI however. The boys were forced back down the mountain due to chest deep snow. They're back in BC now too, with no word on another attempt for now.


A second weather window is expected this week and some of the climbers, such as Gerlinde and Ralf, were taking advantage of one more acclimatization rotation this weekend. They're likely to make their summit bids on K2 this week if the weather holds as expected. The next few days could be very interesting once again. 

Karakorum 2010: Summit Push Begins!

It seems that the projected weather windows in the Karakorum are opening as expected, and a number of teams, on a variety of mountains, including K2, are now preparing to begin their summit push.

Starting on K2, Fredrik Ericsson is preparing to make his ascent, and hopefully ski descent, of the mountain, with the latest update on his progress coming today. Fredrik and his partner Trey Cook hope to head up the mountain for one more acclimatization run, but the whole expedition could be in jeopardy thanks to severe frostbite on Trey's fingers. He's been treating them with Amoxicilline for the past few days, and he's going to give them one last chance on the climb, but if they continue to be a problem, he'll abort his attempt, and possibly prevent Fredrik from summitting as well. He has already been advised by other climbers that he should give up and head home, but Cook seems determined to climb, even at the expense of his fingertips. 


Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits have already climbed up to Camp 3 on K2, and found that their acclimatization on Everest this past spring is still serving them well in the Karakorum. The husband and wife team are now back in BC, where they are watching the weather, and preparing to make their big push. If successful, Gerlinde will be the first woman to claim the fourteen 8000 meter peaks without oxygen. 


Over on Broad Peak, the Filed Touring Alpine team is preparing to make a run at the summit as well. The team is currently in Camp 2 and high winds have been blasting the summit today, but they are expected to subside over the next day or two, giving access to the summit at last. A number of other teams have already tried, and been turned back by heavy snow, so hopefully they'll get a crack at the top while the weather is good. From there, they'll move over to K2 to make an assault on that mountain as well. 


Similarly, the BAT Basque Team has begun their second climb on Broad Peak as well, leaving BC earlier today. They hope to be in position to complete a new route, in alpine style, by Saturday, and if the weather holds, they'll continue on to complete a traverse of the BP's three summits before descending back to Base Camp.


On Gasherbrum I, Don Bowie and Alexey Bolotov have begun their summit push too. They've reached Camp 2 on that mountain, and will be planning on head up tomorrow. They hope to successfully summit in the next few days as well, and will then evaluate conditions on the other Gasherbrum peaks to determine if they'll continue to climb later in the season.


It's beginning to shape up like a busy weekend in the Karakorum with a number of climbers in place to make summit bids Saturday or Sunday, which is when the weather is suppose to be at its best. Another window is expected next week too, so those that aren't ready to go now will get another chance. 


Stay tuned!

Karakorum Update: Summit Bids and Acclimatization

Things are starting to get busy in the Karakorum, where teams are starting summit bids on some peaks, while others continue the process of acclimatization on others. High camps are being stocked and the weather is deciding factor, as the season moves further into July.

We'll start on Broad Peak, where the action is underway with a major push by the BAT Basque Team made up of Alberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza  and Juan Vallejo. According to ExWeb, the boys headed up the mountain today on their initial summit push in the hopes that they can take advantage of four days of good weather that is currently in the forecast. They'll be making an alpine style climb, along a new route no less, that will eventually see them traverse all three of Broad Peak's summits. Apparently they're going as light and fast as they can, carrying no oxygen, and using no porters, fixed ropes, or established camps. They hope to summit on Saturday and complete the traverse on Sunday, if all things go according to plan. Stay tuned for more on this dramatic climb. 


Mike Horn and his climbing partner Kobi Reichen have begun their second summit attempt on BP as well. The two turned back due to bad weather a week or so back, and have been patiently waiting for a weather window ever since. It seems they'll try to take advantage of the four days of good weather ahead too. 


The Field Touring Alpine Team is also working the normal route on BP, and are expected to finish fixing the lines up to Camp 3 today. They expect to spend the night there tonight and then descend back to Base Camp tomorrow. They're hoping to then rest for a few days and decide the best time to make their own summit bid. The Broad Peak climb is being used as a warm-up and acclimatization process before heading over to K2. 


Speaking of K2, Fredrik Ericsson and his partner Trey Cook, have checked in from that mountain, giving us some details of their recent climb up the mountain that resulted in them descending back down, on their skis, in bad weather. They had hoped to spend more time acclimatizing themselves, but a predicted small storm turned into a raging blizzard, forcing them back to BC for awhile. Upon their arrival back in Base Camp, they learned that their missing supplies had finally arrived, and that the Polish Team is planning to head up the mountain tomorrow, with Gerlinde and Ralf going up on Saturday. They also report that a Korean team working the Abruzzi Spur, dismissed their high altitude porters, creating a bit of a stir in their camp. They'll now join forces with one of the other teams to work the route. 


Summit bids are underway on other mountains in the region as well, including a Korean Team going for the top of Nanga Parbet and the Altitude Junkies are reporting that teams are preparing to make their bids on Gasherbrum II as well. Nearby on GI, Don Bowie and Alexei Bolotov reportedly had to navigate their way to C2 using a GPS due to the incredibly bad weather that has plagued the area of late. In fact, the weather has been so bad that one French team has elected to call it quits, going home early, calling the weather "exasperating". 


Seems like it's going to be a challenging season once again in the Karakorum. Weather conditions are, as usual, very nasty, and the peaks there are unforgiving to say the least. Lets hope these teams get a crack at their respective summits. 

Karakorum 2010: The Girls of K2

It looks like K2 is the mountain of choice for the ladies headed to the Karakorum this season. ExWeb is reporting that a number of female climbers have set their sights on the world's second highest peak, including Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, who is hoping to top out, sans oxygen, and become the third woman to climb all of the 8000-meter peaks. The first without oxygen however.

Joining Gerlinde on K2 will be Polish climber Kinga Baranowska, as well as Leila Esfandiari, who is leading her Iranian team. A British climber named Katrina is on the team with the Field Touring Alpine group, and Canadian Meagan McGrath is also setting her sights on K2. You may recall that Meagan started the year off with a successful solo ski to the South Pole as well.

Elsewhere in the Karakorum, a number of teams are still arriving at their respective mountains. The Basque Team on Broad Peak have reached BC, but their porters are still arriving. The supply train was slowed greatly by the snow that continues to fall around that mountain. Similarly, the Altitude Junkies Team, which is hoping to climb the Gasherbrums, began their trek to base camp yesterday and are hoping to arrive by Sunday.

Meanwhile, the Polish Team on Nanga Parbet has been plenty busy already. The team has fixed the ropes up to Camp 3, but the weather conditions have been extremely cold, and that has not made the experience a pleasant one thus far. They're back in BC now, resting up before proceeding higher on the mountain.

More to come soon. The Karakorum is just now starting to heat up.

Karakorum 2010: A Quiet Season in Pakistan?

As I mentioned last week, the climbing season is about to get underway in the Karakorum Range, where a few climbers are already making their way to mountains such as K2, the Gasherbrums, and Broad Peak.

According to ExWeb it may be a very quiet year in that part of the world, because as of now, only 25 climbing permits have been issued for the entire region, and that includes all of the 6000, 7000, and 8000 meter peaks. My hunch is that the economy is keeping some climbers from traveling to the Karakorum and even sponsorship dollars are still at a premium. The 2009 season was considered a quiet year as well, but even then 70 permits were issued. Guide Fabrizio Zangrilli, who has just arrived in Islamabad ahead of his attempt on Broad Peak, believes that economy, as well as recent flooding in the area, may be helping to keep the traffic down.

Meanwhile, a number of climbers are already in Pakistan and are either en route to their mountain of choice or are already there. Fredrik Ericsson is in Skardu and still making plans for the trek to K2 Base Camp, where he hopes to ski down the mountain. Keep an eye out for updates from Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, who should be arriving in Pakistan soon too. She has just K2 left on her list before she becomes the first woman to summit all 8000 meter peaks sans oxygen. Explorer Mike Horn is also trekking in the region right now as he continues his Pangaea Expedition. On Nanga Parbat, the Polish Team climbing there has worked it's way up to Camp 2, while the Altitude Junkies haven't even gone home from Kathmandu from their Everest climb, and will instead head straight to Islamabad.

I guess one good thing about this season will be that with so few teams, at least it should be fairly easy to keep track of everyone.