Himalaya 2011: Spring Season By The Numbers

Earlier today, ExWeb posted an excellent re-cap of the 2011 Spring Himalaya climbing season, breaking down all the stats and records, while putting it all into perspective for us. They have the scoop on the highs (pun intended!) and lows of another very busy spring in the mountains.

Amongst the stats that may be of interest is the fact that there were, according to ExWeb's count, roughly 680 summits in the Himalaya this year. Of those, about 500 took place on Everest alone. Remember, this is in a year that was said to be quieter than normal. That is a much higher number than what I had been led to believe, but the folks over at Explorers Web are bit more tapped in on those kinds of numbers, so I'm inclined to believe them. The remaining 180 summits were spread out across a variety of peaks, but of the 8000 meter mountains, nine saw successful summits, including Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Annapurna, and Shisha Pangma.

Most of the post is made up of a list of "firsts," which include the first summits on a variety of peaks by climbers from specific nationalities, as well as age records for the youngest and oldest to scale some of these mountains as well.

Finally, the post wraps things up on a solemn note with a run down of the climbers who lost their lives in the Himalaya this spring. That list is always too long, no matter the number on it, and is a sobering reminder of the dangers we all face when going to high altitude.

Himalaya 2011: Annapurna Summit, Aborted Attempt On Lhotse

Earlier today I posted an update on conditions around the Himalaya, particularly on Everest, with weather being the main focus. As I mentioned in that note, the region seems to be colder, windier, and and snowier than normal this time of year. But that isn't stopping some of the climbers, as we have word today of a successful summit on Annapurna and a failed bid on Lhotse.

ExWeb has the details on both stories, with the biggest news being that Italian mountaineer Abele Blanc has topped out on Annapurna. Details are a bit sparse, but for Abele this is the final 8000 meter peak on the list, which he finally conquered after six attempts. ExWeb notes that he even lost his best friend on the mountain back in 2005.

Standing 8091 meters (26,545 ft) in height, Annapurna is the 10th highest mountain in the world. That said, it is considered by many to be the hardest of the 8000-meter peaks to summit, and has highest fatality rate of any of those mountains, including K2.

Congrats to Abele for standing on top at last! Well done!

The other news item of note is that Czech climber Radek Jaroš had climbed to Camp 3 on Everest and was attempting a summit push on Lhotse, but elected to retreat due to heavy snow high on the Lhotse Face. As most of you know, the Everest and Lhotse share the same route for much of their climb, diverging at Camp 4, and with the news that the Sherpas have fixed the ropes up to the Yellow Band, located at about 28,000 feet on Everest, Jaroš has hoped to make a summit bid. The weather has thwarted that attempt however, and he is already headed back to BC.

Himalaya 2010: Action on Annapurna, Push Set To Begin on Shisha

The calendar has flipped to May, which can mean only one thing in the Himalaya –summits ahead!

We'll start on Annapurna, where plenty of climbers topped out last week, including Miss Oh Eun-Sun, the first woman to summit all 14 8000-meter peaks. Tragically, climber Tolo Calafat perished during that same summit push, succumbing to altitude sickness while making his descent. As ExWeb notes, this makes it seven straight years with at least one casualty on the mountain, which has more than earned its reputation as one of the toughest of the 14 to summit successfully.

Still, not everyone is done with Annapurna for the season. ExWeb is also reporting that Korean climber Park Young-Seok, who has summitted all 14 of the big peaks as well, is planning a new route up the South Face along a variation of the Bonnington route. The team hopes to have all their prep and scouting work done in time for a mid-May summit bid.

Moving over to the 26,289 foot Shisha Pangma, it seems teams are preparing to make summit bids this week. Included amongst them is Edurne Pasaban, who is successful, will join Miss Oh as the only women to claim all of the 8-thousanders. Reportedly, she was considering a light and fast alpine ascent, having already acclimatized on Annapurna, to go after the record for herself, but with Miss Oh claiming the crowd, she'll know take a more traditional approach to the climb, possibly joining one of the other teams already on the mountain. Watch for word on Shisha summits in the next few days, and another woman officially joining the boy's club of 8000 meter climbers.

Over on Makalu, teams have fixed ropes and established camps as high as C2 at the moment, and there had been plans to go higher over the weekend, but high winds and cold weather prevented that from happening. Most teams are now looking at a mid-week window for climbing up to Makalu-La at 7400 meters. Once that has been accomplished, they'll return to BC before making the final prep for their summit bids.

Finally, we can't leave out Everest itself. Alan Arnette is reporting that snow hit the Big Hill over the weekend, dumping six inches of the white stuff, and prompting teams to stay put in their tents today. Most are eying tomorrow for their next go up the mountain, with some planning on heading up to Camp 3 for their acclimatization rotation.

This is all pretty much standard fare for this point of the season. Up and down the mountain, acclimatize, wait for a weather window, repeat. We're still a couple of weeks out from any real attempts on the Everest summit, but it won't be long now, weather permitting.

NG Adventure Looks At Brewing Miss Oh Controversy

Yesterday I mentioned that Korean climber Oh Eun-Sun had successfully topped out on Annapurna, and in the process had become the first woman to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks. In that same story, I also noted Miss Oh's claim to that title was being disputed and that controversy was already afoot over the whole affair.

The National Geographic Adventure Blog has posted a good article that recaps the story and takes a look at this brewing controversy a bit more closely. It seems that Miss Oh's summit of Kangchenjunga last year is the one that is in dispute, as there are no photos showing the Korean woman at the summit. Instead, the only photographic evidence that is being offered is an image that is well below the top. In her defense, Miss Oh says that weather conditions at the summit made it impossible for her to stay their long enough to take a photo.

The Kangchenjunga climb has especially been called into question by Edurne Pasabán, the talented Spanish climber who needs to just knock off Shisha Pangma to complete her list of 8000 meter peaks, something she expects to do in the next couple of weeks. Edurne says she decided to speak out on the subject after her own climbing record was examined and called into question by South Korean television reporters last week.

As if that wasn't enough to cause a stir, Miss Elizabeth Hawley, who is the definitive expert on all things related to climbing in the Himalaya, has weighted in on the topic as well. She says that there is enough doubt cast on Miss Oh's Kangchenjunga summit to warrant an investigation.

In the end, I suppose the mountaineering community will decide.

Himalaya 2010: A Quick Recap of Current Events

I've been reminded that most of you have probably been keeping up on a lot of the big events while I've been away, so I'll make this my last recap of some of the action that has been going down over the past few weeks. As usual, ExWeb and Alan Arnette have done a great job of keeping us all in the know as the climbers continue their acclimatization process on Everest and similar peaks, while others have already topped out on Annapurna, with a major milestone reached.

We'll start there, as it seems that Korean climber Oh Eun-Sun topped out on Annapurna yesterday, becoming the first woman to reach the summit on all 14 8000 meter peaks. She has been in a race with several other female climber to claim that distinction, and the climb ends a 13 year quest to bag them all. Miss Oh was turned away on Annapurna last year do to treacherous conditions. The Associated Press video below gives more details on the climb.

But, since this is mountaineering, there is a bit of controversy to go with the achievement. A certain "Spanish rival" has hinted that Miss Oh may not have actually reached the summit on all the mountains. Is there truth to these claims or is it just sour grapes?

Meanwhile, on Everest, conditions remain quite treacherous on both sides of the mountain. Avalanches have been frequent occurrences, with one on the North Side coming as recently as yesterday. That slide as left Hungarian climber László Várkony missing, and presumed dead. All others, including 13-year old Jordan Romero, are reportedly safe in BC.These conditions have made for slow going thus far, as the ropes are not yet fixed above Camp 3, although most climbers have already spent a night in that location.

On a personal note, I can attest to the shakiness of the snow. While making the trek to BC from Gorak Shep, I personally witnessed three avalanches in one afternoon, with the biggest, and closest one to Everest occurring just on the far side of the Khumbu Ice Falls, but off the Lhotse Face. It was a humbling experience to hear that rumble and watch all that snow come tumbling down.

Finally, Alan is also reporting that a true search for Irvine's Camera may be on! It appears that an Austrian team may be on Everest to specifically look for the mythical camera, that could at last, shed light on whether or not Mallory and Irvine reached the summit. They are reportedly using data garnered from Everest Historian Tom Holzel to aid in their search. A few months back it was widely reported that Holzel had used satellite imagery to identify a "blob" that he believes is the body of Sandy Irvine, who died on the mountain with George Mallory back in 1924. Should be interesting to see what they find.

That's all for now. More updates soon.

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

April 1st has come and gone, and that means that things are really ramping up in the Himalaya, especially on Everest, where teams have been trekking to Base Camp for more than a week now. Well, on the South Side at least. It is business as usual in Nepal once again, but it seems the border into Tibet remains firmly shut.

According to ExWeb climbing teams headed for Everest's North Side had their permits in hand on Friday, but were still not given entry visas into Tibet so they could begin the journey to that side of the mountain. There was no real explanation as to why the borders weren't reopened at the beginning of the month as expected, but once again, the Chinese were not exactly being cooperative.

This is the third year in a row that entry visas have been difficult to acquire, to say the least. In 2008, the Chinese closed down the mountain altogether to allow their climbers to take the Olympic Torch to the summit, and last year entry was delayed due to the 50th anniversary demonstrations of the Dalai Lama going into exile. Eventually the borders did open, and teams made their way to the North Side, but very few ventured that direction due to the uncertainty of the situation. This year, it seems that that uncertainty remains. Who knows how long it'll be before access to the mountain is granted.

Meanwhile, on the South Side, the Khumbu Ice Doctors have already gone to work, and are fixing a route through the Ice Falls using ropes and ladders. With the first climbers due in BC later this week, it is quite likely that they'll find the route through the falls will already be finished when the arrive.

Alan Arnette posted a great story over the weekend that looks at the current state of affairs on the Everest, including some preliminary news from the major teams and insights into what they are experiencing at the moment. Fun fact of the day: The Himex team will have over 300 tents for their group alone!

On some of the other peaks in the Himalaya, things are starting to get interesting too. Miss Oh has arrived in Annapurna Base Camp, where she came face to face with Edurne Pasaban. They are the two ladies squaring off to become the first to climb all 14 8000 meter peaks. Meanwhile, the Iranian National Team is now on Dhaulagiri and has already established Camp 1 as the begin their process of taking on that mountain.

Himalaya 2010: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life

As I mentioned yesterday, the annual descent on Kathmandu has begun, with climbers and trekkers beginning their pilgrimages to the various mountains that have been calling their name over the past few months. Word from KTM is that the city it is busy and bustling at the moment, as our usual cast of adventurers make last minute preparations before heading out to the mountains. \

One team that has been in and out of Kathmandu, and on their mountain of choice, is Edurne Pasaban's Annapurna Squad. For the moment, they remain the only team on the mountain, and have already established themselves up to C2. In fact, the team has been fixing ropes to C3 the past few days, and have been living in Camp 2 since Wednesday, which puts them well along in their acclimatization process. The group is hoping to make an early summit then move over to Tibet to take a stab at Shisha Pangma, grabbing the last two 8000 meter peaks on Edurne's schedule.

ExWeb is reporting that another woman in pursuit of the 8000 meter peaks, Miss Oh Eun-Sun of South Korea, is set to arrive in Annapurna BC this week, after acclimatizing on Tharpu Chuli. Anna is the only mountain left to add to her resume as well.

Meanwhile, the Shared Summits Team is in Nepal and preparing to take on Makalu, the 5th highest peak in the world? The team consists of Chris Warner and Marty Schmidt, who will be attempting a new route on the mountain along the South Face.

The Adventure Dynamics Team is made up of a group of climbers from South Africa who are taking on Everest from the North Side. The team leaves in a little less than a week for Kathmandu, and are in the last minute stages of planning.

Similarly, the Peak Freaks have begun sending updates from their Everest team, with climbers arriving in Kathmandu. The dispatch from today notes that bad weather is once again delaying flights into Lukla and Phablu, another village nearby. Seems like a rocky start to the season, but not unusual for this time of the year, and the mountaineers are in no rush to get to Base Camp at this point anyway.

Hold on to your hats, by next week this time, things will really be getting interesting.

Himalaya 2010: Annapurna Teams Go For C2

The 2010 Himalaya season is probably still another week or two away from really getting started in ernest, but as I mentioned while back, there are already some teams on the ground in Nepal, with more than a few climbers making their way to Annapurna. ExWeb has an update from that region, with the news that Edurne Pasaban and her team are preparing to go to Camp 2 as early as tomorrow.

Edurne and company have been on the mountain since last week, and have already set up BC and Camp 1. Today they are planning to hike back up to C1 and spend the night, then proceed up to Camp 2 tomorrow, where they'll cache their supplies for the climb ahead. The Spanish climber has just Annapurna and Shisha Pangma left on her list of 8000 meter peaks, and she'd love to knock them both off this season. To do that, she'll need to acclimatize now, and get an early summit on Annapurna, before moving over to Shisha once Tibet re-opens to visitors.

Another woman chasing the glory of being the first female to nab all of the 8000 meter peaks is Korean climber Miss Oh Eun-Sun. She has just Annapurna left for herself, and is now in the process of preparing for that mountain. According to ExWeb she is currently acclimatizing on Tharpu Chuli, also known as Tent Peak, and will join her support team next week to begin the trek to base camp. Miss Oh has become such a celebrity back home that her climb will be broadcast on television there, and reportedly there is a crew of 15 following her from the network alone.

Meanwhile, Kinga Baranowska is back in the Himalaya and on her way to Pumori, which will serve as a warm-up for Annapurna. Currently, she and her "Pan-European" team are enjoying a trek through the Khumbu region, and reached Namche Bazaar a few days back. The all-star team of climbers from across Europe include Piotr Pustelnik and Kinga, both from Poland, Horia Colibasanu of Romania, Peter Hamor from Slovakia, Russians Sergey Bogomolov and Evgeny Vinogradskiy and Joao Garcia from Portugal. As you can imagine, all of those nationalities has led to some interesting language barrier issues amongst the team so far, although they do seem to be getting along well.

So, it seems that for now, Annapurna remains the center point of expeditions in the Himalaya. The 26,545 foot mountain may be the 10th highest in the world, but it is one of the most dangerous and difficult to climb. At this stage of the season, I'm sure there is still plenty of snow on the mountain. Hopefully it'll remain safe in the days ahead.

Senior Trekkers Find Adventure in Nepal

Obviously I write a lot about hiking and trekking, often in remote and exotic locations, such as the Himalaya. Recently, I had the opportunity to contribute to a story written by someone else, who was putting together a piece on trekking in Nepal for senior travelers. (Read: those over 50) The story is now available online at the Philadelphia Inquirer , and is a good read for those considering such a journey, no matter what age. You can find it by clicking here.

The author of the story, Alan Solomon, discusses the two most popular treks in the Himalaya, namely the hike up to Everest Base Camp and the Annapurna Circuit. Alan did the AC a few years back, and spent eight days in the Himalaya with a group of backpackers, many of which fell into the "senior" category. He paints an accurate, and not overly shiny, portrait of what it is like to visit these locations, and what travelers can expect while hiking there.

Essentially, Alan warns us that the trails are quite challenging, the air is thin, and that there is a good chance you could suffer some gastrointestinal disorder. But he also says that it is more than worth the effort, and that those on his expedition considered it one of the greatest travel experiences they had ever been on. In short, expect some discomforts, but you'll be rewarded for the effort.

My contribution to the story comes at the end where we discuss changes to the Annapurna Circuit. That has long been considered by many to be the best trek in the world, but with the opening of a road through the region in recent years, the nature of the trek has changed fairly dramatically. What was once just mountain trails, villages, and tea houses, now has traffic, noise, and dust as well. By some accounts, it's a shadow of its former self, while others say that road doesn't diminish the beauty of the place to any great degree.

The bottom line is that the Himalaya are still one of the best trekking destinations anywhere, and given the opportunity, you should go, no matter what your age!

Himalaya 2010: Tibet Closed as Spring Season Begins!

I've been mentioning it for weeks, and now it is upon us. The 2010 Himalaya season has begun, with the first teams already arriving in Kathmandu and setting out for the various peaks that they will challenge this spring. Meanwhile, as has become all to common in recent years, it seems that Tibet is once again closed to outside visitors.

ExWeb cited reports from climbers yesterday that the borders into Tibet are once again closed, with no set date for when they'll reopen again. Rumors are suggesting that the travel restrictions will be lifted on April 10, although climbers may be allowed in sooner than that. As has been the case the past few years, the closure seems to be in conjunction with the anniversary of the Tibetan Uprising, which took place 51 years ago tomorrow. Reportedly, more than 400 people have already been arrested in Lhasa alone as part of a nationwide crackdown by the Chinese, who continue to insist they have nothing to hide in the country.

With Tibet once again sealed off to the outside world, mountaineers are headed to Nepali peaks to get the climbing season underway. Edurne Pasaban, for instance, is on her way to Annapurna. Her and the rest of the team, flew to Pokara today, where they'll begin the trek to Annapurna Base Camp. They are already prepared to face challenging conditions however, as the snow is said to still be quite deep above 4500 meters.

Korean climber Miss Oh Eun-Sun has arrived in Kathmandu, and will be heading to Annapurna soon as well. She'll make the famous trek there to acclimatize first, then hopes to set up camp in BC by mid-April. From there, she'll be concentrating on her final 8000 meter peak, the 26,545 foot main summit of the massif.

Similarly, Joao Garcia of Portugal is going for his final 8000 meter peak as well, on the same mountain. ExWeb says that he has climbed all the previous 13 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen, and of course will do the same here. He departs Lisbon for Kathmandu tomorrow, and will spend some time there before moving on to Annapurna too. Check out the video below to learn more about Joao.

Finally, the season is underway. Expect more news in the days to come, with climbers on their way to Everest by the end of the month. It's about to get very busy in the Himalaya.

Bonington Going Back To Annapurna!

British mountaineering legend Sir Chris Bonington is heading back to Annapurna, the mountain that arguably cemented his reputation as one of the preeminent high altitude climbers of his generation. He'll go back in 2010, a year of anniversaries for the mountain.

According to this story over at Wide World, which has just relaunched with a new snappy new site design, Bonington will be trekking the Annapurna Circuit with his son Joe. This will be his first trip back since 1970, when he was the expedition leader for a team that made the first successful attempt on the South Face of Annapurna. While Bonington didn't reach the summit himself, he did plan and orchestrate the expedition that did claim that new route. He did, however, top out on Annapurna II back in 1960 as part of a British Army expedition.

In the article, Sir Chris tells Wide World that the trekking route will be much the same as the one they used back in 1960, although things have obviously changed a lot since then. There was only one main road in the entire country back then, and much of Nepal remained mountain wilderness. Bonington is obviously looking forward to revisiting the place that played a huge role in his mountaineering career.

The Annapurna Massif is actually made up of a series of peaks, with Annapurna I through IV being the most prominent. The jewel of the Massif is Annapurna I, the tenth highest peak in the world at 8091 meters (26,545 feet). It was first climbed by Maurice Herzog back in 1950, making 2010 the 60th anniversary of that first ascent. It'll also be the 40th anniversary of the Bonington's team making that first ascent on the South Face, and the 50th anniversary of his first visit to the region.

Hopefully, Sir Chris will share some of his thoughts while trekking or upon his return. It would certainly be an interesting read, especially with his keen sense of history. Better yet, you can join the trek yourself! Head over to BoningtonTreks.com for more info, and pricing.

Also, if you'd like to learn more about Chris, I highly recommend the book The Boys of Everest, which is a great read about Bonington and the elite group of climbers that he climbed with. Great stuff.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Koreans Call It Quits On Annapurna

More news from the HImalaya, where it appears that we will continue to wait for the first woman to join the ranks of men who have topped out on all of the 8000 meter peaks, as the Korean team on Annapurna, which includes Oh Eun-Sun, have called off their summit bid, and are now preparing to go home.

ExWeb is reporting that the team got as high as Camp 3 over the weekend, but high winds prevented them from going any higher. They have now returned to Base Camp, and are preparing to depart for the season. They will have another go at the mountain in the Spring of 2010, when Miss Oh will try once again to become the first woman to nab all 14 eight-thousanders. Due to it's high level of danger due to avalanches, Annapurna is not a mountain to attempt during the winter.

Now, the expeditions to the big peaks seem to be over for the season, and the action will heat up on some of the other challenging, but lesser mountains. The Field Touring Alpine Team reached Namche Bazaar over the weekend where they took the usual break and spent some time acclimatizing. They'll now continue on to Ama Dablam this week.

Meanwhile, the Climb With Us team is now in Pumori Base Camp, and according to their latest updates, they will begin shuttling gear up to ABC tomorrow, where they'll begin carving their tent platforms and start the early stages of acclimatization. The team had its Puja Ceremony earlier today and now have the blessings of Lama Tashi Stundu to begin their climb.

Watch for more updates later this week as more teams arrive on Pumori and Ama Dablam and begin their climbs as well.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Death on Shisha

It has been a tumultuous fall season in the Himalaya with some great climbs and disappointing results, mostly due to the wildly unpredictable weather that is common in the region this time of year. That weather has forced many teams to go home, but a few intrepid expeditions are still there, and trekking to some of the lesser known peaks as we speak.

There was tragic news a few days back from Shisha Pangma, where Italian climber Roby Piantoni fell while on a particularly tricky section of the climb. His team descended to find his body, and then buried on the mountain, but his family has requested that it be sent home, so today, a ceremony was held for him on the mountain, and operations are underway to recover his remains. Several climbers, include Edurne Pasaban, and her Sherpas, are helping in the recovery, which will entail taking his body back to Nepal via Yak due to a ban on helicopter use in the area. With this sad news, I send my condolences to Roby's friends and family in their time of grief.

Australian Andrew Lock finished up his climb on Shisha awhiel back, and in the process, claimed his final 8000 meter peak. That story has been picked up by the mainstream audience back in his homeland, with the media reporting on the expedition and the challenges to his climb. Andrew has already shared his thoughts on his accomplishment, but if you want to read a different account, check out this story over at the Australian Broadcasting Company's website.

Turning away from that sad news, it appears that the Korean team on Annapurna is getting ready to have a second go at the mountain. Reports seem to indicate that they are on the move and will be heading up over the weekend with an eye on reaching the summit on Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. If successful, Oh Eun-Sun will become the first woman to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks, so stay tuned for updates on that.

The Climb With Us Team, led by Jaime Clarke continues their trek to Pumori. I've been reminded that you can get updates on the expedition not on from the Climb With Us website but also the Live Out There page too. The expedition is an opportunity for the team to field test some new outdoor gear courtesy of Hanesbrands, before they head to Everest in the spring. It'll be a few more days before they reach BC yet, and then things will get really interesting.

Expect further updates from teams in the region in the days ahead, as Field Touring Alpine, Adventure Consultants, Peak Freaks, IMG, and others all have climbers en route to Pumori, Ama Dablam, and more.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Over For Edurne, Miss Oh Ready To Go!

More updates from the Himalaya today with some news on the two ladies who have been vying for their place in history on the 8000 meter peaks.

We'll start on Shisha Pangma, where Edurne Pasaban has announced that her expedition is over and that the team is heading home. She reports that weather forecasts are not good, and that they don't look to improve any time soon, so rather than extend the climbing permit, she'll leave the mountain without a summit for the fourth time. Edurne is one of the top female mountaineers who has been working very hard the past few years to become the first woman to summit all 14 8000 meter peaks. She currently stands at 12, with Shisha frustrating her once again.

Meanwhile, over on Annapurna, Korean climber Oh Eun-Sun is about to take another crack at that mountain. Miss Oh has 13 of the eight-thousanders down, and is hoping to claim the title as first woman to summit them all. The only thing that stands in her way is Annapurna and all of it's very substantial challenges. She hopes to begin another push in the next few days, as a weather window seems imminent.

Pumori continues to be a busy mountain, with teams arriving late in the season to give the 23,494 foot mountain a go. The Peak Freaks have announced that they arrived in BC safely yesterday, and are enjoying a rest today, while they organize camp and take a look at the challenges in front of them.

The Climb With Us team is en route to Pumori as well, and have arrived in Namche where they will spend a day acclimatizing. You can read about their progress and the expedition so far on the latest dispatch from team leader Jamie Clarke, which can be found here.

Other teams are closing in on Ama Dablam, with the IMG team having crossed through Namche a few days back and continuing their trek to BC, while the Field Touring Alpine squad has gathered in Kathmandu and are preparing to depart for the Khumbu region in the next few days.

More to come soon I'm sure. Keep an eye on Annapurna for word on the Korean team and Miss Oh's chance to make history.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Weather Halts Many Climbs

The season appears to be over on a number of big peaks in the Himalaya after high winds and bad weather put an end to a number of climbs over the weekend, sending teams home without reaching the summits of their target mountains.

ExWeb reported yesterday that the Basque Team on Everest have abandoned their attempt on the Hornbein Couloir and are now headed home. The team only had one real shot at the summit along that route, but dangerous avalanches denied them on that occasion, and while they waited for another weather window, it became apparent that it wasn't going to happen.

Meanwhile, the story was a bit different on Shisha Pangama, where on the North Side, Nicholas Rice reported in that they climbed up to C1 on Saturday, only to find that their tents and other equipment they had stashed there. They suspect that it was a Sherpa team with a Chinese squad who have already left the mountain, but aren't positive of that fact. They also suspect that Camps 2 and 3 have been raided, and are disheartened by the fact that they not only had to give up on their summit bid, but have lost thousands of dollars of gear in the process. Two months worth of toil down the drain thanks to another selfish team.

On the South Side of Shisha, Edurne Pasaban and her crew attempted a summit bid over the weekend, but found their camps were missing as well, but for a completely different reason. The high winds swept them off the mountain completely, leaving them with little gear to proceed up. The team is back in BC and looking to borrow gear from some of the teams that are preparing to go home.

Over on Cho Oyu, a similar story is told by the Adventure Consultants, who wanted to make their bid starting on Sunday, but were also turned back due to high winds. With their weather window closed, they're also headed home.

No word from Annapurna as of yet. The Korean team was hoping to wait out the weather and make another go at the summit, hoping to put Miss Oh on top and get her the coveted spot of the first woman to climb all 8000 meter peaks. At this time we don't know if that is still a reality or if the window is closed there as well.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Details From Andrew and Ueli

Two of the big name climbers in the Himalaya this fall have posted updates to their websites filling us in on the details of their climbs. Both reached the summit of their respective 8000 meter peaks after some struggles along the way.

First up, Andrew Lock has updated his blog with the details on his summit of Shisha Pangma, which happened to be his 14th, and final, 8000 meter mountain. His tale is a good one, and well worth the read, as he lets us in on the scary nature of climbing up to the true summit amidst weather that was getting worse by the minute, and than played havoc with the descent. Harrowing stuff!

The other update comes from Ueli Steck, who is now home, safe and sound, after his climb on Makalu. Ueli had intended to make a solo, alpine style ascent along the West Pillar, but ended up going after the normal route and claiming a successful summit along the way. Ueli is back in Switzerland now, and starting to return to the routine of his normal life, but is also dealing with frostbite and exhaustion. He says that he has never been tested by a mountain like this one before, and that it was only through his strength of will that he actually stood on top. More good stuff.

While these two amazing climbers are safely down and sharing thoughts on their climbs, others are still preparing to make summit bids as the weather begins to shift in the region. ExWeb is reporting all of the weekend plans for teams looking to get into position for early next week, including Edurne Pasaban who is still hoping to become the first woman to join the list of the 8000 meter club.

ExWeb is also reporting that there is no change in status at this time for teams on Annapurna or Everest. On the former, Miss Oh is hoping to get another crack at the summit as well, so she can stake her claim at 8000 meter history, while on Everest, the Basque team is hoping at another shot at the Hornbein Couloir.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Climb With Us Team Leaves For Pumori

While many teams have already packed up and gone home for the season and others are just now finishing up their expeditions, the Climb With Us Team, which is sponsored by Hanesbrands, is just setting off for their climb on Pumori, the 7161 meter (23,494 foot) Himalayan peak located on the border between Nepal and Tibet. The mountain, which is known as "Everest's Daughter" sits just five miles to the west of the Big Hill itself, and is a popular destination for mountaineers looking for a Himalayan climb.

For the Climb With Us team, they'll be making a trial run with the new gear that was recently announced from Hanes, ahead of an Everest climb scheduled to take place next spring. You'll be able to follow along with the expedition, which is led by Jaime Clarke, on the Expeditions Update page, which already has a nice story about Pumori from Stephanie Pearson, who is a contributor to Outside Magazine. Good luck to the whole team!

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting in that storms have moved into the region, and that is preventing many teams from moving up their mountains at all. Most climbers are hunkered down in base camp, waiting out the weather and hoping for a window to open soon.

On Annapurna, the Korean team, which includes Oh Eun-Sun, is holding fast for now, despite the fact that the heavy snow has collapsed tents and made life very difficult. Their weather forecasters tell them this storm will hold in place until the Friday at the very least, and after that they'll have to decide if they can make another go at the summit or if they'll come home. Annapurna is notorious for its dangerous avalanches, and this new blanket of snow won't help their cause much. Miss Oh is hoping to become the first woman to nab all of the 8000 meter peaks, and has just this lone mountain to go.

Similar reports are coming in from Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma, and Dhaulagiri as well. Teams on each mountain say that heavy snows have left them stranded in BC with near arctic conditions raging around them. Of course, if conditions are this bad in the base camps, how bad will they be further up the mountain, where the high camps have already been established? Some teams will no doubt face the task of having to re-establish those camps once the storm clears.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Andrew Lock Claims Last 8000m Peak!

The weekend news from the Himalaya begins with Andrew Lock, who reached the summit of Shisha Pangma last Friday, claiming his final 8000 meter peak, and becoming the the 18th person to summit all 14. The details on the climb are still a bit thin, but judging from his latest dispatch, it sounds like things were a bit treacherous on the descent. Andrew reached the true summit on Shisha, along with Neil Ward, but on their way down they were forced to camp, without gear, at 7600 meters. They did return to BC eventually, but have yet to share the details of their harrowing climb. I sense there is a good story here. Congrats Andrew! Well done.

Also on Shisha Pangma is the Summit Climb Team, which I reported last week were having some drama high on the mountain. One of the members of the team, Bart Dirven, had collapsed on the descent, and was having a difficult time making his way down after a successful climb to the Central Summit. Bart was suffering from exhaustion and altitude sickness, but in their latest update, it was reported that the entire team, including Bar, were down safe and sound. Crisis averted!

Meanwhile, over on Annapurna, the Korean team was turned back this weekend due to bad weather conditions high on the mountain. They are all back in base camp now, and plotting another attempt. ExWeb is reporting that they hope to make their next summit bid sometime next week, with an eye on being on top by October 15th, provided they get a weather window to proceed. This has temporarily put a halt to Oh Eun-Sun's attempt to become the first woman to summit each of the 8000 meter peaks.

Over on Dhaulagiri, we have word that there is an Italian team making an attempt on that mountain. There hasn't been a lot of news from Dhaula this fall, but that doesn't mean it is deserted. The Italians went up as high as C3 over the weekend, but were also forced back down due to inclement weather. They hope to make another attempt, weather permitting, later this week.

Finally, teams are clearing out of the Himalaya and heading home. Alpenglow Expeditions returned to Kathmandu on Saturday, and Field Touring Alpine has already vacated the region, but they still found time to post an excellent trip report from their recent climb on Satopanth.

Clearly, the days are numbered on the Fall Season. Winter is not far off, but there are very few climbs during that season.

Himalaya Fall 2009: Miss Oh A Go For Annapurna Summit!

I know that I already posted an update on the Himalaya today, but ExWeb has posted news from Annapurna, where Korean climber Miss Oh Eun-sun has set off on her summit bid. The story indicates that she is behind her projected schedule, but has gone up to Camp 1 today, and hopes to go to C3 tomorrow with the hopes of topping out this weekend, most likely on Sunday. If she is successful, she'll become the first woman to climb all 8000 meter peaks, knocking off five this year alone.

I want to wish Miss Oh the best of luck. I hope she is taking every precaution in her Annapurna climb, as many consider it the toughest of all the 8000m peaks to summit. She's had a very ambitious hear in the Himalaya, and hopefully discretion will win out over ambition should conditions become dangerous.

ExWeb also reports that the Basque Team on Everest have regained their strength in Base Camp and are now prepared to make another attempt on that mountain. They have been going after the Hornbein Couloir, and were forced down by avalanches earlier in the week, but now feel confident to give it another go. They'll be going to the summit in an alpine style push, and may top out this weekend as well, but more likely it'll be next week.

Finally, the ExWeb article also does a good job of explaining the difference between the Central and Main Summits on Shisha Pangma, both of which I mentioned in my earlier post. The Central is lower than the Main, but many don't make it to the top, as it is a very treacherous climb, especially with snowy conditions. It is an interesting read on the topography of the mountain.

The Rest of Everest Episode 113: Annapurna IV Bonus Interviews

Following a few weeks off, the Rest of Everest returns this week with a new episode that gives us more of a glimpse of the Annapurna Circuit, as climbers Ben Clark, Josh Butson, and Tim Clarke leave Annapurna IV behind, and continue the trek back to civilization.

The episode begins with an update on the Everest Trek 2010, which will be photography and videography workshop combined with a high altitude trek through the Himalaya next spring. Registration opened last weekend, and more than half of the available slots filled up immediately. There are, however, a couple of available spots on the trek still open, so if you're interested in joining the fun next year, head on over and sign up. It's going to be an amazing trip to a seldom seen side of Everest.

From there, we leap into the bonus episode, which has climber Ben Clark chatting up a few female trekkers who were hiking the Annapurna Circuit and enjoying the Himalaya. For anyone thinking of going to Nepal to make a similar trek, it's quite an interesting episode, as you'll get to see other travelers talk about a variety of subjects including food, the scenery, the culture and much more. Several of them talk about the challenges of hiking at altitude and others comment on how amazingly friendly and hospitable the people of Nepal are to visitors. Definitely worth watching if you're planning a trip to the Himalaya in the future.