Himalaya Fall 2011: A New Season Begins

With the summer season in the Karakoram now behind us, climbers are heading back to the High Himalaya in Nepal and Tibet for the fall season. While this is a much quieter time of year, when compared to the hustle and bustle of spring, there are still plenty of teams looking to bag summits in the weeks ahead.

Some of the climbers have already come and gone through Kathmandu and are now acclimatizing on their mountain of choice. For example, the Himex team is on Manaslu (8156 meters/26,759 ft) this fall, and have already gone as high as Camp 1, located at 5547 meters  (18,200 ft), where they spent three nights last week. While most expeditions to the Himalaya are special in their own right, this one is even more so. The team has nine soldiers from the U.K. who have suffered wounds while serving in Iraq and Afghanistan, each of which are hoping to summit the mountain. Those soldiers are working with the charity Walking With The Wounded to raise funds and awareness of their cause.

Also on Manaslu are the Altitude Junkies, who welcomed all of their team members to camp yesterday. They held their Puja ceremony this morning, and will now begin shuttling gear up to Camp 1 as well, The Sherpas are expected to start that process tomorrow, with the climbers to follow on Wednesday. Team leader Phil Crampton reports that the weather has been terrible in Base Camp the past three days, with plenty of rain making it difficult to establish camp. Fortunately, their gear seems to be working well so far, keeping everyone warm and dry.

IMG has teams on both Cho Oyu (8201 m/26,906 ft) and Shisha Pangma (8013 m/26,289 ft) this fall, and those squads both reached their respective Camp 1 last week. Both teams have spent time acclimatizing at altitude and are now resting in ABC and are expected to climb up to C2 in the next few days. Meanwhile, Sherpa teams have finished establishing those Camp 2's and are now fixing ropes above those points.

Other climbers and squads are now en route to other mountains as well, including Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, and more. As of now, I haven't heard of anyone attempting Everest this fall. If you know of a team that is doing so, please forward their information on to me. Thanks!

Himalaya 2011: Spring Season By The Numbers

Earlier today, ExWeb posted an excellent re-cap of the 2011 Spring Himalaya climbing season, breaking down all the stats and records, while putting it all into perspective for us. They have the scoop on the highs (pun intended!) and lows of another very busy spring in the mountains.

Amongst the stats that may be of interest is the fact that there were, according to ExWeb's count, roughly 680 summits in the Himalaya this year. Of those, about 500 took place on Everest alone. Remember, this is in a year that was said to be quieter than normal. That is a much higher number than what I had been led to believe, but the folks over at Explorers Web are bit more tapped in on those kinds of numbers, so I'm inclined to believe them. The remaining 180 summits were spread out across a variety of peaks, but of the 8000 meter mountains, nine saw successful summits, including Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Annapurna, and Shisha Pangma.

Most of the post is made up of a list of "firsts," which include the first summits on a variety of peaks by climbers from specific nationalities, as well as age records for the youngest and oldest to scale some of these mountains as well.

Finally, the post wraps things up on a solemn note with a run down of the climbers who lost their lives in the Himalaya this spring. That list is always too long, no matter the number on it, and is a sobering reminder of the dangers we all face when going to high altitude.

Himalaya 2011: Wrapping Things Up

While I was away in South America, the spring climbs pretty much wrapped up in the Himalaya. Now, the monsoon looms, and with its arrival, comes plenty of rain and wind, which will shut off the big peaks in Nepal and Tibet until the fall. And while the final weather window on Everest didn't last as long as was hoped, and many climbers had their dreams dashed, there were a few notable climbs that I wanted to highlight, even though it has been some time since they were completed.

For starters, major congratulations to 16-year old George Atkinson of the U.K. Not only did George summit Everest, he also became the youngest person to complete the Seven Summits, which is a very impressive accomplishment. The young man was three days shy of his 17th birthday when he stood on top of the world, climbing from the North Side of the mountain. Hopefully he celebrated both the climb, and the birthday, at the Rum Doodle back in Kathmandu.

Meanwhile, a team of female air force officers from India also reached the summit of Everest from the South Side of the mountain. The team consisted of eleven climbers, three of which successfully stood on the top of Everest. The women trained for the past two years to prepare for this expedition, knocking off a string of summits that included Mt. Stock Kangri and Mt. Saser Kangri.

The Indian ladies weren't the only women making history on Everest. Forty-year old Suzanne Al Houby of the United Arab Emirates became the first Arab woman to summit the mountain as well, when she reached the top on May 21st from the South Side. She has now completed five of the Seven Summits, in her bid to become the first Arab woman to complete that quest as well.

Things didn't work out quite so well for Ueli Steck however. As you no doubt recall, he was attempting to climb three 8000-meter peaks in the Himalaya this spring, and seemed nearly unstoppable after finishing off Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu in rapid succession. Ueli's bid on Everest didn't go as planned however, and the Swiss climber was forced to turn back 100 meters below the summit on the North Side. You can read his full account of the attempt on his website. 

It was another successful season for the Sherpas working to clean up Mt. Everest as part of the Save Everest Campaign. Apparently, the group brought more than eight tons of waste down from the mountain, with much of that being deposited in Namche Bazaar, but a lot is being taken back to Kathmandu as well. There were 29 Sherpas involved in the effort, and they estimate that another 20 tons of garbage still covers the mountain. 

Finally, this story has the tale of the tape on Everest this season saying: 

"A total of 169 people from 42 teams scaled the world’s tallest peak between May 5 and May 27, while two foreigners and one Nepali died while trying to make it atop, according to statistics at the Mount Everest Base Camp. Two climbers have lost their fingers to frostbite, while 10 have been sent to Kathmandu for treatment. A woman from Taplejung has scaled the peak twice."

Seems like a rather small number compared to the past few years, but then again, we knew early on that Base Camps on both sides of the mountain were quieter than normal. Not sure if that trend will continue, but at least for this season, the mountain wasn't over crowded.

Now on to the Karakoram summer season ahead...

Himalaya 2011: Another Notable Summit, Another Climber Passes Away On Everest

Yesterday brought both more good and bad news from Everest, where teams on both sides of the mountain are still working their way to the summit ahead of the arrival of the monsoon, which is likely just a few weeks away at this point.

First, we have a summit of note, as climbers Richard Parks and Steve Williams reached the top of the mountain while climbing with the Jagged Globe squad. For Parks, this marks a major milestone in his "737 Expedition" during which he is attempting to reach the "three poles" and complete the Seven Summits in just seven months. Everest has often been called the "third pole" and by topping out on the mountain, Parks has now visited the three poles, having gone last degree to the North and South, and has finished off five of the seven summits as well. He now has just Denali and Elbrus standing in his way of becoming the first person to visit the three poles and seven summits in a single calendar year. (Thanks to Alan Curr for sending this my way!)

While some climbers continue to pursue their dreams of standing on the summit of Everest, others have decided to call it a season and head home. Amongst them are Edurne Pasaban, who hoping to summit without supplemental oxygen, but turned back at Camp 4 over the past weekend due to high winds and the poor health of two of the team's Sherpas. On the descent, Edurne and her team provided aid to the Spanish climbers who were in trouble on Lhotse, and the efforts to climb and assist in the rescue, have left them exhausted and unable to continue. Pasaban provides details on what turned out to be a very long two days on the mountain in a blog post you can read here.

Alan Arnette has arrived back in Lukla, and is preparing to head out to Kathmandu tomorrow and catch a flight home on Friday. He posted a great blog entry today in which he answers a number of questions about climbing Everest. It is an excellent read for those looking for more information about what goes into such a climb.

Finally, sad news from Everest, as we have received word that Irish climber John Delaney passed away on the mountain while climbing with the 7 Summits Club last weekend. He apparently ran into trouble at about 8800 meters and fell behind the summit team, passing away shortly there after. Condolences to his friends and family.

Himalaya 2011: News From All Over

The 2011 Himalayan climbing season is starting to wind down for another year, but there is still plenty of things happening on peaks throughout the region. With so many expeditions taking place at this time of the year, it is a real challenge to keep up with all the activity, so apologies in advance if I've neglected someone or failed to mention an expedition.

We'll start once again on Everest today, which is where the bulk of coverage has been on the South Side, but the teams approaching from the North are finally getting their chance. As reported yesterday, the 7 Summits Club  topped out not long after the ropes to the top were fixed and apparently the Asian-Trekking squad was also there at about the same time. It is unclear which team reached the summit first from the North Side, but in the greater scheme of things, it doesn't really matter. Both teams enjoyed summit success, and the North Side is open for business. Most other teams are looking for summit bids late this week, and there is no news on when Ueli Steck and Don Bowie will make their attem32pt. My guess is that they'll go for it before the crowds, but it depends on how they feel and what the weather dictates.

On the South Side there are still a few teams making their summit attempts as well, including the Jagged Globe team, who are on the move today. Edurne Pasaban and her team are hoping to head back up later this week as well. They turned back at Camp 4 over the weekend due to illness on the squad and windy conditions, which can be tough to endure when climbing without oxygen. The Spanish climber, the only woman officially recognized for climbing all fourteen 8000-meter peaks, also took part in a rescue on Lhotse of fellow countrymen who ran into trouble while descending that peak.

Speaking of summitting without oxygen, ExWeb is also reporting that a monk by the name of Bhakta Kumar Rai spent 32 hours on the summit of Everest, meditating for 27 of those hours. He was on oxygen for just 11 of those hours as well. Impressive feats all around, especially when you consider most people only spend a few minutes on top.

There is sad news to report this morning from Cho Oyu, where a number of sources are saying that Dutch climber Ronald Naar has died. Apparently he had given up on his summit bid due to bad weather, and on the descent he was feeling ill. He later collapsed in Camp 3. Naar had previously conquered the Seven Summits, as well as K2, and also enjoyed polar exploration too. This was to have been his last expedition.

There was also alarming news from Kangchenjunga as well, where Alex Gavan reported a dicey situation involving a Serbian climber named Dragan. Apparently, he was suffering from both HACE and HAPE, and had to be evacuated from the mountain via helicopter. No news on his condition as of yet, but it sounds like a very serious situation. Keep your fingers crossed!

Finally, on Lhotse, the previously mentioned Spanish team that was in trouble over the weekend included Manolo "Lolo" Gonzalez, who had to be evacuated from the mountain following a harrowing descent in bad weather. Lolo, and the rest of his squad, reached the summit, but conditions made for a slow descent, which left them exposed at altitude for far too long. Gonzalez ended up spending the night alone on the mountain until he was discovered by another group of climbers the following day.

Ryan Waters and his teammates also topped out on the mountain, as did Zsolt Eross, who claimed his ninth 8000-meter peak. What made this one special however, is that Eross suffered a climbing accident in 2010, which required that a leg be amputated. He earned this summit with an artificial limb. Congrats to Zsolt and the rest of the Lhotse summitteers. 


More news to come in the next few days I'm sure. There is still a lot happening, despite the end of the season looming. Lets hope there aren't any more causalities or serious accidents. 

Himalaya 2011: Alan Summits Everest, North Side Teams On Top Too!

As predicted last week, the weather window on Everest this past weekend was a good one, an many climbers went up to the summit. There are some indications that as many as 100 people stood on top on Friday and a similar number may have gone up on Saturday as well. One of the first to top out on Saturday was Alan Arnette, whose expedition we've been following closely for the entire season.

As regular readers of this blog know, Alan has been climbing Everest as the third leg of his 7 Summits for Alzheimer's  campaign. Alan's mom was afflicted with that horrible disease for eight years, and since her passing, he has dedicated his life to helping educate the public about it, while also raising funds for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. Everest was the biggest hurdle to him reaching his goal, and the mountain had thwarted his efforts on three occasions in the past. So with all of that backstory and challenge, it was with a lot of emotion that he sent this audio dispatch from the summit a few days ago. He has also posted an excellent report of his climb that makes for a great read as well. You can find that report by clicking here.

I want to take this opportunity to congratulate Alan personally. I know exactly what this means to him and it is a gigantic step towards knocking off the Seven Summits and more importantly achieving his goals for spreading the word about Alzheimer's as well. Listening to his dispatch from the summit brought a tear to my eyes on Friday night when I heard it, along with a swell of happiness for my friend. It has been a struggle, but on the fourth attempt, he finally stood on top of the world. Well done Alan!

On the North Side of the mountain, the climbers finally got the break they were looking for as well, and many took advantage of it by going up over the weekend too. Alan reported that there were three climbers from the North on the summit when he arrived, and they were apparently part of the 7 Summits Club team, who were amongst the first to top out. Expect a regular string of summits on the Tibetan side of the mountain this week, as it appears that many of the teams are in place to make bids on Thursday or Friday. Amongst them are Ueli Steck and Don Bowie, who are in Advanced Base Camp and are weighing their options on when to make their move.

Back on the South Side, it appears that Edurne Pasban and her team have backed off their summit bid, at least for now. She was hoping to make the summit without the use of oxygen, but the team abandoned their attempt in Camp 4 when two of the Sherpas developed respiratory issues and the winds picked up again on Saturday. They hope to have another go of it later this week.

I'm sure we'll have more news from the mountain all week as reports come in about the climbs. The window is now coming to rapid close, as June is looming. I expect Base Camp on both sides of the mountain to be empty in another week and a half. But for now, there is still plenty of excitement in the Himalaya.

Himalaya 2011: More Summits On Everest And Kangchanjunga

As expected, a second wave of summits has begun on the South Side of Everest, where teams have gone up this morning despite higher winds. The trend is expected to continue into the weekend, as other teams are currently poised to make their bids as the winds die down later in the day.

The Himex team put eight of their clients, along with three guides and ten Sherpas, on the summit this today, after setting out at about 12:30 AM local time. Apparently, the team moved efficiently and with good speed, and over took other expeditions at the Balcony. There was a traffic jam at that point, so the ever-industrious Himex Sherpa's circumvented the ropes that were in place, and short roped their clients over that portion. They were soon on their way to the top, leaving slower teams behind. Amongst the summiteers today were David Tait, who has now stood on top of Everest on four different occasions. Well done to all!

The final IMG team is in place at Camp 3 and waiting to move up as well. That's where we heard from Alan Arnette this morning, who says that the winds are expected to dissipate, allowing the teams currently in a holding pattern to make their summit bids tomorrow. If all goes according to schedule, they'll be at the top around or shortly after dawn.

Meanwhile, on the North Side, rope fixing is suppose to be finished today, which will finally allow teams to reach the summit. A number of teams, including the 7 Summits Club, have already set out for Advanced Base Camp in hopes of being in position to go up as soon as possible. Kenneth Koh, who is climbing with Project Himalaya, Tweeted that he and the rest of the team are heading up today as well, and they hope to summit sometime around the 27th of the month, which would be a week from today, weather permitting. I hope for their sake, that the window stays open for them, as it seems to be a narrow one from the Tibetan side of the mountain.

Meanwhile, there has been a lot of activity on Kangchanjunga today as well. The third highest peak on the planet at 8586 meters (28,169 ft), sees far fewer climbers than Everest, and is a formidable climb in its own right. On his Twitter feed, Alex Gavan reports that 50 people went up today in one of the biggest summit pushes Kang has ever seen. At this point, we're not sure how many made it but we do know that  Alexey Bolotov reached the top, as did Christian Stangl, who reportedly is suffering from some frostbite. A French team consisting of three climbers also topped out, but from the reports, it seems that bad weather and cold turned back a good portion of the climbers. Alex is recovering from a stomach bug himself and hopes to go back up soon, weather permitting.

It seems it will be another very busy weekend in the Himalaya, with summit attempts coming on a number of peaks. Wish everyone well and keep your fingers crossed that everyone gets down safely.

Himalaya 2011: Winds Delay Everest Bids

The ever fickle weather on Everest is once again causing some issues for the climbers, but at least for now it seems like a minimal issue. Yesterday I mentioned that a number of teams were moving into position to make a run at the summit late in the week, with most expecting to reach the summit early on Friday morning. But a new weather forecast is changing those plans, at least for some, as high winds are now projected for that day. In order to avoid those potentially dangerous winds, cautious climbers are holding off for an extra day and will now look for a Saturday summit instead.

One of the climbers who was happy to hear the news was Alan Arnette, who is currently in Camp 2 and is looking forward to an extra day there. He'll take advantage of the situation to rest, conserve his energy, and continue to eat plenty of calories in the hopes that he'll be more than ready come summit day. Alan, and the rest of his IMG team, will now look for a May 21st summit in the hopes of avoiding the winds.

Also in Camp 2 is Dave Hahn, who is now climbing the mountain sans clients. He was expecting to take father-daughter team Bill and Sara McGahan to the summit, but it wasn't to be. Yesterday the clients pulled the plug on their expedition and elected to go home, so now Dave and his crew will climb for themselves. If he reaches the top, this will be Hahn's 14th summit of Everest, the most by any non-Sherpa. He is also expecting to top out on Saturday.

Edurne Pasaban has begun her summit bid as well, setting out yesterday. Her original plan was to summit on Friday, without the use of supplemental oxygen, but the forecast for higher winds may change those plans. Climbing with oxygen in high winds is tough enough, but going with out O's could be brutal. While she hasn't updated her schedule yet, I wouldn't be surprised if her team doesn't wait out the winds as well.

Finally, some possible good news from the North Side, where the 7 Summits Club reports that the Chinese have promised to complete the rope fixing by Friday, May 20th. This will come as a big relief for teams that have been waiting to get a crack at the summit, and as a result, the 7 Summits Club team has started to move up the mountain. If all goes as expected, they hope to make a summit bid on Saturday morning as well. There is no word on whether or not the high winds will impact the North Side of Everest, and if so how it could alter the rope fixing and summit plans. Stay tuned and keep your fingers crossed for those poor souls on the Tibetan side of the mountain who have been patiently waiting their turn.

Himalaya 2011: Everest North Side Updates

Over the past few weeks there has been a flurry of activity on the South Side of Everest, as the commercial teams are well organized, and worked together to fix the ropes. That has led to the first wave of summits, and as we all know, many climbers are currently moving up the mountain to get in place for a second summit push at the end of the week, when a 48-hour weather window is expected to open once again.

But getting news from the North Side of the mountain has been especially difficult this season and to date, there have been no summits from that side of the mountain. In fact, as of Sunday, it seems that the ropes aren't fixed to the top yet, which is leaving climbers sitting in Base Camp, wondering when they'll get their opportunity to go up. As you probably already know, rope fixing on this side of the mountain is handled by the Chinese Tibetan Mountaineering Association, which seems to be a bit unorganized and lagging behind their counterparts to the south.

Still, there is some word as to what is happening. Kenneth Koh, who is climbing with the Project Himalaya team, has been sending out tweet from Everest, and you can glean some information from what he has posted. Yesterday, Kenneth sent out a tweet which read: "It's too long to just sit around BC, so we are hiking up to ABC today for a couple of nights to keep fit." That indicates to me that they're still waiting for the okay to go up the mountain, and like everyone else, they're hoping for a weather window. In an earlier tweet, he mentioned that it looks like everything could be set by the final week of May.

Kenneth's teammate Grant Rawlinson has also been blogging from the North Side, and he echos his companions comments. They're continuing to wait and trying to stay busy and healthy until their opportunity comes. But what if that doesn't happen? The Sherpas may not get the ropes fixed until the weather window at the end of the week, and since it is only 48-hours in length, the teams may not be in position to take advantage of the opportunity to dash up the mountain. What if another window doesn't come? The entire North Side season would be a bust, leaving many bitter and disappointed climbers. Lets hope that doesn't happen.

Finally, two guys who may be well suited to make a quick dash up the mountain, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie, arrived in Base Camp today. The note on Don's site says that they will take the next few days to assess the situation and prepare for their climb. If anyone can take advantage of a small window, it is probably Ueli and Don. Stay tuned. If Steck summits, it'll be his third 8000 meter peak in a little more than a month.

Himalaya 2011: Ueli Steck Shares Details Of Cho Oyu

Last Friday we got the news that Ueli Steck and Don Bowie had summitted Cho Oyu, notching Ueli's second 8000 meter peak in 18 days. Over the weekend, both men shared their thoughts on the climb, filing in some of the details of the ascent and their time on the mountain.

Ueli posted this detailed report, which gives us a timeline of the climb and conveys a sense of urgency that they felt due to weather window that had opened for the 4th and 5th of the month. After that, things looked dicey, and if they hoped to reach the summit before moving on to their next challenge, they would need to take advantage of what ever window nature offered. That's exactly what they did, and according to Ueli, it was a fairly easy, as far as 8000 meter peaks go, climb.

He did note that he wasn't nearly as fresh on Cho Oyu as he was on Shisha Pangma a few weeks back. Judging from his report, he is looking forward to finishing the expedition, and heading home, as he has been away for some time now, and the toll of climbing and trekking in the Himalaya has begun to wear on him.

Of course, he and Don have one more peak yet to go, and that would be Everest. The pair hope to return to Lhasa tomorrow and spend a day or two resting there before driving to Everest Base Camp, provided the Chinese grant them permission to do so. It seems that they will most likely be in BC by the weekend, and should be ready to have a crack at the mountain sometime next week, provided they feel healthy and read, and the weather holds out.

For a second report on their climb, you can read Don's account by clicking here. He treads similar ground as Ueli, but shares some other details as well, such as a nasty bout of sickness that hit both men prior to their Cho Oyu ascent.

And for those asking, yes there is a summit photo this time. Ueli and Don were part of a small group of climbers who went up the mountain, as opposed to Steck's solo efforts on Shisha.

Himalaya 2011: Ueli Checks In From Cho Oyu, Ready For Summit Bid

Ueli Steck and climbing partner Don Bowie have sent an update from Cho Oyu, the next stop in their Himalayan Triple Header this spring. You may recall that Ueli topped out solo on Shisha Pangma a few weeks back, and now the duo are prepping to go for the summit on the 8201 meter (26,906 ft) Cho Oyu.

According to the dispatch, since arriving on Cho Oyu last week, Ueli and Don have been acclimatizing at altitude and building their camps. They've been up as high as 7000 meters (22,966 ft) and are back in ABC and watching the weather closely. The forecast said that a window could open as early as today, and if that holds true, they may have already started the ascent.

It should be noted that they are not making an attempt on any kind of speed record on this climb. They do home to go light and fast, but beyond that, they're saving their strength for their final challenge, Everest from the South Side, which will take place in a few weeks time.

As for questions that continue to surround Ueli's speed climb of Shisha, I'm not sure why we haven't seen any summit photos. Perhaps Ueli didn't take the camera with him since he wasn't expecting to go for the summit that day. That seems unlikely, but it is a possibility. We have seen video of him high on the mountain and moving upwards very rapidly, but so far there has been no definitive proof that he has stood on top.

Perhaps once the entire expedition is over, we'll get plenty of that evidence offered to us, but for now, we simply have the reports from Ueli, Don, and their companions.

Himalaya 2011: Lines Fixed To C3 On Everest South Side

Despite continued cold and snowy conditions in the Himalaya, work towards the various summits progresses on schedule. As the first of May quickly approaches, it seems that it is all about the acclimatization process, building high camps, and stashing gear for the eventual summit push.

Perhaps the biggest news of the day is that the Sherpa teams fixing ropes on Everest's South Side have reached the Yellow Band, located at 28,000 feet. According to an update from IMG, they'll now descend back to Base Camp for a few days of rest before returning to that point on the mountain. My guess is they'll finish the last sections, up to the 8848 meter (29,029 ft) summit on their next go, clearing the way for the commercial teams to follow in a few weeks time.

With the ropes fixed so high up the mountain,  some teams have begun to climb up to C3, including the Peak Freaks who will likely have climbers there as early as tomorrow. Part of their team is at Camp 1 now, and another part is in Camp 2. They'll all "touch" Camp 3 tomorrow or Wednesday, and immediately descend to C2 for the night. Other teams are sure to follow of course, with most spending at least a night at C3 as part of their acclimatization.

Things are progressing a bit more slowly on the North Side, where the weather has been even dicier. Teams on that side of the mountain have gone up to Camp 1, where they've spent a few nights and stashed some gear. Most are back in BC now, awaiting a chance to go higher. On that side of the mountain, a team of climbers from the Chinese-Tibetan Mountaineering Association handles the fixing of the ropes, thus all the teams are at their mercy while they wait for them to finish the job. Last year, they lagged a few days behind their counterparts on the South Side because it took a bit longer for the Sherpa team to complete their tasks. It is beginning to look like that will hold true this year as well.

Over on Makalu, David Morton and Melissa Arnot have completed their Puja ceremony and have started their work on the mountain. You can read their updates on the Born Out There blog. In his latest update David talks about the challenges of sleeping at high altitude, a subject that I found all too familiar while reading his dispatch. In short, it can be a not so pleasant experience.

Finally, Ueli Steck is en route to Cho Oyu, the next challenge in his Himalaya Triple Header. According to his website, he and the team are in Namche Bazaar at the moment, but will be back on the trail tomorrow. With any luck, they'll be in BC on Cho Oyu in a few days time, and we'll start the countdown on his attempt at his next big peak. Any one want to start a pool on how fast he'll go up this mountain?

To see what it is like behind the scenes on Ueli's adventure, check out the video below.


Project Himalaya: Behind the Scenes in Namche from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.

Outside Gives Us 10 Things To Watch On Everest This Year

The Outside Blog has an interesting list up today of 10 things to watch on Everest this season, featuring a brief run down of some of the fun, and crazy stories from the annual circus that surrounds the world's tallest mountain.

Amongst the items to make the list are Alan Arnette's Memories Are Everything expedition, in which he is climbing to raise funds for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. Alan is a frequent contributor to the Outside Blog and I have been following his dispatches from the mountain closely as well. Other climbs of note include Edurne Pasaban's no-oxygen climb on the South Side and Nick Rice's attempt to do the same on the North.

A couple of the items on the list aren't actually on Everest, but its neighbor Lhotse instead. Spanish climber  Carlos Soria Fontan is attempting that peak at the age of 72 as his on going effort to climb all 14 of the world's  8000 meter peaks. Similarly, another team of climbers will attempt Lhotse and then ski down the West Face.

At the moment, most of the teams on the mountain are building their high camps and acclimatizing. Some have spent a night or two at Camp 2, and most are waiting for the Sherpa teams to fix the ropes up to C3, C4, and eventually the summit. This is all standard procedure on the mountain, and everything is on schedule for an expected mid-May summit window, weather permitting of course.

Himalaya 2011: More On Ueli's Speed Ascent Of Shisha Pangma

A few days back we received the stunning news of Ueli Steck making a solo speed climb of Shisha Pangma in just 10.5 hours. Over the past few days more details and information about that ascent have begun to trickle out, even as Ueli and his climbing partner, Don Bowie, make their way for their next big Himalayan peak.

An update was posted to Ueli's website, HimalayanSpeed.com, that contains some more insight into the climb. It seems that Steck attacked the South Face of the 8013 meter (26,289 ft) after getting a weather forecast that was favorable for his ascent. Bowie was forced to stay behind in ABC, as he has not fully acclimatized yet, but Ueli was able to go in his traditional style, light and fast, all the way to the top. His 10.5 hour climb marks the fastest ever ascent of the South Face and the second fastest 8000 meter climb of all time.

Don Bowie has also posted his thoughts on the climb on his website as well, with some personal insights into what happened as well. He says that Ueli had intended to climb with him, but Don encouraged him to take advantage of their present weather window and have a go at it. The forecasts weren't good for a few days later, and in mountaineering terms you have to go for it when you can. With that in mind, Ueli went for it, and the rest is history.

Don and Ueli are no en route to Cho Oyu, an 8201 meter (26,906 ft) peak on the border of Tibet and Nepal. They spent just five days on Shisha, much to the surprise of their support crew, who are use to settling in for weeks at a time. Even the yak herder who brought their gear was surprised to get a call back to BC, as he had barely returned home when it was time to pick up the gear once again.

This is just the latest demonstration of Ueli's versatile climbing skills. I guess there will probably come a time when I stop being surprised at the things this guy pulls off on the mountains, but I'm not sure when that will happen. He is simply an amazing climber, dedicated to his craft, and he'll probably have another great climb on Cho Oyu before heading over to the Big Hill – Everest – in a few weeks.

And for the commenter who has already been posting anonymously questioning Ueli's time and wondering about summit photos, you may want to stop trying to drum up controversy where there is none. Ueli's reputation is beyond reproach, and his skills are WELL documented. I'm sure that you'll get all the proof you need at some point. As for me, I have all I need in Ueli's word alone.

Can't wait to see what he and Don can do on the other two 8000 meter peaks on their itinerary.

Himalaya 2011: Base Camp Politics

As the young climbing season continues to unfold, there are a number of milestones that need to be achieved before anyone ever goes to the summit. Well, anyone other than Ueli Steck anyway. In addition to the normal acclimatization process, teams have to build their high camps and stock them with supplies, which is a process that can take weeks to complete. While they're busy doing that, teams of Sherpas will be working the route and fixing ropes to the summit, which eventually paves the way for the commercial climbers to follow along later.

Due to the large number of climbers, even in a down year like this one, fixing the ropes to the summit on Everest is always a delicate affair. In recent years, the larger commercial teams have joined forces and worked together to accomplish that task, spurred on by Russell Brice's Himex squad, which brought a much needed level of organization to the South Side of Everest when the company left the North Side a few seasons back. On the North Side, Brice was the man in charge, keeping track of every aspect of the mountain, on the South he still holds a lot of sway, and has found a way to work the other teams.

On Sunday, a meeting was held amongst the team leaders to discuss the various responsibilities and to decide who would take charge of fixing the ropes. Apparently that meeting wasn't a good one, as Edurne Pasaban reports in a blog post from that day. Edurne, who is a very experienced climber and back on Everest to make a summit attempt without oxygen, describes a scene that sounds chaotic, unorganized, and elitist. She wasn't even invited to the meeting because she is climbing independently, which implies that she should be using her own ropes, which will have to be set by her own team. Whether or not that happens, remains to be scene, but one thing is clear, Edurne didn't feel welcome at the meeting, nor did she feel that it was productive, positive meeting. Her frustrations at the process and her fellow climbers, are easy to see in her words.

To make matters worse, after her team set up camp, they were asked to move out of the way, as their tents were blocking one of the commercial team's yak path. Edurne and her mates dutifully moved out their tents, despite the fact that there was no evidence of a trail nor have they seen any yaks pass through the area.

While some of this probably comes across as sour grapes and easily hurt feelings, it actually sounds a bit like business as usual on Everest. That's what happens when you get some very alpha type personalities, all of whom are use to being in control, trying to work together. That said, I'm sure they'll sort it out and get the work done, albeit with a few bruised egos along the way.

On the North Side, things are a bit quieter. There aren't nearly as many climbers there, and most of the big commercial outfits don't operate there due to the Chinese control of that side of the mountain. But there are still plenty of teams in BC and are preparing to make their climbs as well. David Liano for instance, who ExWeb reports is climbing with Asian Trekking, and is now in ABC on the North Side. ExWeb also says that a Mongolian climber, who was preparing to summit Everest, had to be sent down from BC when he started hacking up blood. The man was suffering from pulmonary edema and he hadn't even left Base Camp yet.

Altitude is a scary thing!

Himalaya 2011: More From Kathmandu

As I mentioned yesterday, the 2011 Himalaya season is starting to ramp up quickly with climbers and guides arriving in Kathmandu and putting the final touches on their preparations for the climbs ahead. One of those climbers is Alan Arnette, who will no doubt be posting regular updates throughout his expedition to climb Everest as part of his Seven Summits for Alzheimer's campaign. Alan posted another update from Kathmandu today, offering more insights into what is happening there and what we can expect in the weeks ahead.

Aside from setting the scene about how noisy and chaotic Kathmandu can be this time of year, or any time of year for that matter, Alan says that the weather in the region has improved, which means flights will resume to Lukla today. That's important for the climbers heading to the Khumbu region, in particular those going to Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and other peaks in that area. The IMG team that Alan is climbing with is scheduled to leave for Lukla on Thursday, when they'll also begin their trek to Base Camp. Other teams were already hoping to get out of KTM yesterday, so expected a bottleneck of travelers over the next few days, as everyone struggles to get out on the trail.

Alan also noted that he bumped into Russell Brice, owner of Himalayan Experience, better known as Himex, in the lobby of his hotel, and also had lunch with Phil Crampton of the Altitude Junkies. Both indicated that the number of climbers on Everest could be down as much as 25% this year thanks to the ongoing issues with the global economy and a rise in prices to climb the mountain. Back in 2009, there were more than 500 people who reached the summit of Everest, but it seems that this year we won't even come close to those kinds of numbers. That's probably a good thing, as it will reduce the crowds on Summit Day and may make for a safer climb in general.

Over the next week or so, most of the teams will be consumed with getting out of Kathmandu and making the trek to Base Camp. While that trek is a walk in the park compared to what lies ahead for them, it is still an important part of the acclimatization process that will prepare them to go higher on the mountain. It is also quite a great hike with some amazing views. On the North Side of Everest, in Tibet, the climbers will actually drive to BC. It isn't the same experience, and they deal with the acclimatization a bit differently, but there will be teams headed that direction soon too.

Alan Arnette Takes Us On A Visual Tour Of Everest

In a few short weeks, hundreds of climbers will descend on Kathmandu where they'll begin their journey to the summit of Mt. Everest. Some will elect to go to the South Side, located in Nepal, while others will travel to Tibet where they'll scale the mountain from the North. One of those climbers is Alan Arnette, who will be visiting Everest for the fourth time as he continues his Seven Summits For Alzheimer's Expedition.

Alan is always a fantastic resource for mountaineering information and as he prepares to leave for the Himalaya once again, he is sharing the adventure with us on his website. Yesterday he re-posted a great video on his blog that helps to explain the route to the summit of Everest and just what the climbers go through so that they can stand on the highest point on the planet.

Many of you are probably already very familiar with this process, but for those that aren't, it is quite eye opening. It'll also serve as a great resource in the weeks ahead, giving us all a reference to where the various Everest teams are at on the mountain at any given time.

Is anyone else looking forward to the 2011 season as much as I am?

World Tri Update: Charlie Is On Foot, Headed Toward Everest

I've posted updates on the World Tri a couple of times in the past, but it has been awhile since I checked in on the progress of Charlie Wittmack, the man who kicked off this adventure last summer. The World Tri is exactly that, a massive triathlon that began when Charlie swam across the English Channel last August. From there, he got on his bike and rode from France to India, which he completed a few months back, before flying home to enjoy some down time, and much needed recovering, before returning to India to complete the final leg of his triathlon on foot.

In late January, Charlie did indeed return and he is now somewhere out on the road, traveling alone, as he works on completing the final leg of the journey, which will eventually see him attempting to climb Everest this spring. The finish line for the World Tri is on the summit, and he hopes to successfully top out on that mountain for a second time in his life. Unfortunately, there haven't been any updates to his blog since he started the next phase of his journey, so hopefully all is well and Charlie is making the progress he expects.

That blog has revealed that this has not been an easy journey for Wittmack however. In one entry, he talks about lying in bed in Tibet, completely exhausted mentally, physically, and financially. He says that he had suffered cerebral edema a few days prior, and had lost the sight in his right eye, which put him at the end of his rope. At that point, he just wanted to be home, and thankfully he was not long after.

Once home, he was given the opportunity to heal and recover nicely with his friends and family. But eventually it was time to get back on the road, and that's where he is right now, making his way towards his final challenge, which will be Everest. If everything goes as planned, in a few short weeks he'll be joining the hundreds of other climbers who will be making their way to Base Camp on the North and South Sides of the mountain, hoping for an opportunity to stand at the top of the world. Most of those climbers will come the old fashioned way however, catching a flight into Kathmandu. Charlie will be making the journey on foot. Lets hope he isn't exhausted and spent before he ever gets a crack at the mountain.

Alan Arnette Explains The Routes Of Everest

As I mentioned a few days back, the Everest 2011 season isn't as far off as you would think, and as I write this, dozens of mountaineers across the globe are preparing to head to the Himalaya in a month to start their epic climb up the world's tallest mountain. While there are more challenging and hazardous peaks to scale, Everest is the one that holds the attention of the mainstream audience for sure. As most of you know, the bulk of the summit attempts come along two routes, one from the North Side, which falls inside Tibet, and one from the South Side in Nepal. Despite the fact that the two routes are on the same mountain, they both vary a great deal from one another. Fortunately, Alan Arnette has written an excellent, and informative, blog post to help us sort out the various routes up Everest.

The article breaks down both the North and South Side routes, explaining where each of the camps are located and sharing the distances traveled and the time it takes, on average, to reach those points on the mountain. He also shares the more famous landmarks on the climb as well, such as the Balcony and the Hillary Step, both of which are found along the South Side route. Those points of reference are often used when explaining where teams are at on the mountain, especially on summit day when they are making their final push. If you're new to following the Everest season, this information will help you put everything into perspective when the action begins later this spring.

Alan also shares the positive and negative aspects of climbing from either side as well. For instance, on the North Side you can actually drive to Base Camp and you'll find smaller crowds on the way to the top, but you'll also have to deal with colder temperatures and higher winds as well. Meanwhile, the South Side has nearby villages for acclimatizing and recovery and tends to be slightly warmer, but climbers have to pass through the dreaded Khumbu Icefall every time they leave BC.

Finally, Alan wraps things up with a discussion on which side of the mountain is the most deadly. Statistically speaking, the North earns this dubious distinction, and he explains some of the reasons why that might be, such as lower costs leading to more independent climbers, more technically challenging aspects to the climb, and so on.

This article is an excellent primer for those looking to learn more about what goes into an Everest climb and how the various routes differ from one another. It is also a nice reminder for those of us who have been following the annual spring climb for some years too, and it helps to prepare us for the season ahead.

Alan will actually be on Everest for the fourth time this spring as he continues his Seven Summit Climbs for Alzheimer's. This will be the third of his seven summits, having already knocked off Vinson in Antarctica and Aconcagua in Argentina.

Gearing Up For Everest 2011

It hardly seems possible that we're on the verge of another Everest climbing season, but a month from now the climbers will be hurriedly putting the final touches on their preparations before setting off to the Himalaya. One of those climbers will be Alan Arnette, who is already preparing for his own attempt on the mountain and has shared some pre-season information with us on his latest blog post.

First off, Alan reports that he has heard from the good folks at Everest ER, who will once again be setting up their medical facilities in Base Camp on Everest's South Side. Organized and run by Dr. Luanne Freer, Everest ER provides all kinds of medical services for the climbers who can suffer a number of ailments while on the mountain. Most are fairly minor in nature, but obviously there can be some very serious health related issues when you're dealing with altitude. Dr. Freer noted that the group would once again be accepting $100 donations from each non-Nepali climber to help offset costs, and she also noted that there will be a third doctor in the camp this year, extending their capabilities even further.

Alan also posted a note on the success rate of climbing Everest and noted that the Russell Brice, who operates the Himalayan Experience guide service recently posted his company's numbers. Himex offers guided expeditions on Everest and a number of other big peaks, and Brice has years of experience in the business as one of the top services in the region. So how did Himex perform? From 2001-2010 the company has a 74% success rate of their clients, guides, and Sherpas. If you factor clients alone, that average is at 70%, which is a pretty respectable number all things considered.

Finally, Alan writes about the potential changes, or lack there of, in the way communications are handled on Everest. Back in October, we were all excited by the news that 3G cell towers were now in place near Base Camp which would allow the climbers and trekkers to make and receive phone calls, texts, and even use data while on the mountain. Turns out that while service is there, most will still need to use a satellite phone for reliable communications back to the world. Alan cites this article from ExWeb which received word directly from the cell company that service only extends up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft), which is slightly above BC. Those heading up to Camp 1 or higher will still want to bring their traditional comms equipment with them.

That's all for now, but as usual, you can expect a major upswing in the amount of Everest news as we inch closer to the spring. It won't be long now until the streets of Kathmandu are even more crowded with trekkers and climbers, and another season will begin in full force. I can't wait!